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Installing Your Heated Bed

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This guide is currently being written. Reload periodically to see the latest changes.

Use this guide to install your heated bed if you currently have an assembled Gigabot.

  • Author: Chris Gerty
  • Time estimate: 1 hour
  • Difficulty: Moderate

Edit Step 1 Installing Your Heated Bed  ¶ 

Image 1/3: During this procedure you will be exposing connection which during normal operation will see "mains" voltage (120/220VAC). Image 2/3: When working on any part of this procedure, ensure that the main power is disconnected from any power source, and USB cable is unplugged. Image 3/3: If you are not comfortable working with high voltage connections, consult a certified electrician to perform this procedure for you.

Edit Step 1 Installing Your Heated Bed  ¶ 

  • Included with your heated bed are all of the parts necessary to connect into the electrical box, and install your bed to your existing metal plate.

  • During this procedure you will be exposing connection which during normal operation will see "mains" voltage (120/220VAC).

    • When working on any part of this procedure, ensure that the main power is disconnected from any power source, and USB cable is unplugged.

    • If you are not comfortable working with high voltage connections, consult a certified electrician to perform this procedure for you.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Install the solid state relay in between the end cap and the rightmost connection on the rail, as shown. Image 2/3: Use a small screwdriver to move the relay's connector clip down onto the rail, once it is in place. Image 3/3: Using the provided wiring,  feed the two shrink-wrapped ends, and the brown wire, through the bottom of the electrical box, after removing an appropriate plastic grommet.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Open the electrical box using a large flathead screwdriver.

  • Install the solid state relay in between the end cap and the rightmost connection on the rail, as shown.

    • Use a small screwdriver to move the relay's connector clip down onto the rail, once it is in place.

  • Using the provided wiring, feed the two shrink-wrapped ends, and the brown wire, through the bottom of the electrical box, after removing an appropriate plastic grommet.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • From the brown wire, connect the red and yellow wire ends to the left and right screw terminal (respectively) TC1 on the Azteeg.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The heated bed legs are not polarized, so you can connect either set of three crimped contacts to either designated location. Image 2/3: Route the white wires inside the panduit which is already present in the electrical box. Image 3/3: This will provide some additional strain relief for the mains connection should the wire be pulled on from the outside of the electrical box.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Connect high voltage wiring per diagram.

  • The heated bed legs are not polarized, so you can connect either set of three crimped contacts to either designated location.

  • Route the white wires inside the panduit which is already present in the electrical box.

    • This will provide some additional strain relief for the mains connection should the wire be pulled on from the outside of the electrical box.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Obtain the M5x35mm screws from the bed attachment hardware bag. Image 2/2: Disconnect the four screws from the top of the bed plate, replace them with the M5x35mm screws, and secure with a small amount of tape.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Mark the bed (REAR, FRONT, LEFT)

  • Obtain the M5x35mm screws from the bed attachment hardware bag.

    • Disconnect the four screws from the top of the bed plate, replace them with the M5x35mm screws, and secure with a small amount of tape.

  • Remove the bed and lay upside-down on a clean surface, taking careful note of which side is the LEFT SIDE of the bed. This is the side that the wires will protrude from.

  • Using brake parts cleaner or other non-residue cleaner, wipe down the bed of any dust, oil, or dirt.

  • With the protective plastic still installed on the bed, position the heated bad pad onto the metal bed, over the protruding screws.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Carefully affix the small strip of exposed adhesive to the metal bed, ensuring alignment with the corners, and screws still through the pre-drilled holes. Image 2/2: Remove the two screws closest to the affixed end.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Cut a small amount (1-2 inches) of the protective plastic away from the RIGHT edge of the heated bed.

  • Carefully affix the small strip of exposed adhesive to the metal bed, ensuring alignment with the corners, and screws still through the pre-drilled holes.

  • Remove the two screws closest to the affixed end.

  • Ensuring the affixed part of the bed stays stable, and lift up the remaining part of the heated pad, removing the plastic sheeting.

  • Carefully lay the bed back down, guiding the M5 screws through the pre-drilled holes.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Insert two magic T-nuts (T-nuts that can be inserted after the rail is installed) into the bottom of the rear bed rail. Image 2/3: Connect the panduit as shown. Image 3/3: Route the wiring bundle from the electrical box from the center of the rear panduit, up to the section of panduit connected to the rear bed rail.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Place the bed back onto the bed rails

  • Insert two magic T-nuts (T-nuts that can be inserted after the rail is installed) into the bottom of the rear bed rail.

  • Connect the panduit as shown.

  • Route the wiring bundle from the electrical box from the center of the rear panduit, up to the section of panduit connected to the rear bed rail.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Obtain the remainder of the bed attachment hardware from the bag. Image 2/3: Install the spring, washer, and nylock nut onto each of the four bolts.  Compress the spring to about 50% of its travel. Image 3/3: Route the cabling from the bed to the panduit on the rear bed rail and connect the two connectors.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Install the bed with the electrical wires protruding from the left side of the bed.

  • Obtain the remainder of the bed attachment hardware from the bag.

    • Install the spring, washer, and nylock nut onto each of the four bolts. Compress the spring to about 50% of its travel.

  • Route the cabling from the bed to the panduit on the rear bed rail and connect the two connectors.

  • Tuck the excess cabling inside the panduit to minimize tangling.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Upgrade the firmware of your Gigabot, using the V3.3 from http://wiki.re3d.org/ .

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Replace the Z limit switch bolt M5 x 45mm BHCS with the longer one that is provided M5 x 70mm, to account for the greater thickness of your new heated bed.

  • Upgrade the firmware of your Gigabot, using the V3.3 from http://wiki.re3d.org/ .

Conclusion

Have questions? Need help? Email support@re3d.org

12 Comments

What procedure should you follow if your kit came without the holes being pre-drilled in the mat? I am going to be in Houston later next week and can drop by. Mine is marked #111.

Mike Stewart - Reply

My mat wasn't drilled either. What I did was go ahead and attached the mat to the bed, then I simply flipped the bed over and used a #11x-acto knife to cut multiple slits in the mat thru the holes in the aluminum bed. The mat was easily to cut, and the screws went right through.

Darrel - Reply

Thanks! I ended up at the maker space in Houston and got it sorted out. A quick question though. Did yours come with the spiral wrap? Mine did not. I really should have checked the parts list before heading over there. :)

Mike Stewart - Reply

Yes and no - mine had spiral wrap that ran along the left edge of the bed, but none on the wires coming out of the electrical box. I found some 1/8" spiral wrap at Home Depot, and used that the wrap the loose white wires and the brown wire together from the power supply up to the Panduit. Seemed to work just fine.

Darrel - Reply

I have three thermocouple (brown) wires coming off of the heated bed. One of them has the yellow connector and that one is obvious. What about the other two? Am I missing something in the instructions? Right now, my heated bet temp is showing 937 degrees (the same as if nothing was connected to TC1.

Mike Stewart - Reply

Ah, the TC chips are not on my shield.

Mike Stewart - Reply

amigos necesito que ustedes me ayuden por que el equipo técnico no me ha respondido los correos.

El problema es que según esta guía, en el paquete viene un cable marrón que va conectado a CT1( cable rojo primer terminal, cable amarillo segundo terminal).

y vienen según lo que veo (2 cables blancos cada uno con tres hilos). A mi me llego el cable marrón y un cable con ( 2 hilos blancos y uno rojo) y no es igual a lo que aparece en la guía.. Agradezco si alguien sabe que es lo que debo hacer, no se si es que el modelo es mas nuevo, pero tengo la maquina detenida por que los señores de soporte no me han querido enviar fotos o vídeos en donde se pueda ver de forma clara como se hace la conexión. mi correo es nelsonf.cuanticasolu@gmail.com gracias amigos.

nelson fabian lopez reyes - Reply

Could you tell me the aluminum plate thickness and the acme screw thickness please? Thank you.

Karma - Reply

Karma, The aluminum bed plate is 1/4" thick and blanchard ground on both sides. The Z axis acme screw is 3/8"-8tpi.

Matthew - Reply

As of at least 6/27, the wiring harness has changed from that shown here. The two sets of 3 white heavy gauge wires from the hot bed that are shown are now just 2 lighter gauge wires, one black and one white. There is also a heavy gauge green ground wire that is not mentioned at all in the instructions, nor shown in any diagrams or photos.

I connected the white wire to the neutral block, the black wire to the relay, and the green wire to the ground block. Seems straightforward, but I've screwed up simpler things. Please confirm. This leaves only the eyelet end of the ground wire unaccounted for. Please advise as to the preferred connection point on or near the bed.

Also of note, the filament spool bracket is just above the elec. box and just out of sight as you bend down to look in the box. I hit my forehead, twice.

Kurt Schuster - Reply

I'm currently doing a full retrofit of my OG-GB, and for the heated bed, I moved the Z-cable carrier to the middle-rear rail so that the wires could go straight down from the center of the heated bed. The green wire eyelet is problematic since it's supposed to be mounted on the back edge of the bed (on the exposed aluminum between the heated bed and whatever print surface you have installed on the aluminum). I have an OpenGB so I was able to see how the eyelet is mounted there. Attached with a small bolt. Unfortunately, our beds don't have a hole for that bolt. I tried drilling my own hole, but the head of the small bolt broke twice when trying to screw it in leaving the threaded shaft of the bolt stuck in the side of the bed. The two shafts are short enough to not cause a problem but it's frustrating. Anyway, I simply hung the eyelet on one of the bolts and used a small piece of gorilla tape to hold it in place. I don't know if this will work, but I guess we'll see.

Micah Ganske -

The heated bed I received is labeled on the back side on the front edge with "#315, FRONT, 110 volt". The wire leads come off the center of the back side, not the left side as the instructions state. Is this the current configuration? The leads cannot be moved to the left side as the hole pattern is not a square. The choices are front or back. I don't see a problem, except that the whole length of Panduit on the back bed rail will not be required. Some reassurance would be nice.

Note: make sure you have post-assembly T-nuts for the Panduit, mine came with regular T-nuts which would require disassembly.

Kurt Schuster - Reply