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  1. Included with your heated bed are all of the parts necessary to connect into the electrical box, and install your bed to your existing metal plate. During this procedure you will be exposing connection which during normal operation will see "mains" voltage (120/220VAC). When working on any part of this procedure, ensure that the main power is disconnected from any power source, and USB cable is unplugged.
    • Included with your heated bed are all of the parts necessary to connect into the electrical box, and install your bed to your existing metal plate.

    • During this procedure you will be exposing connection which during normal operation will see "mains" voltage (120/220VAC).

    • When working on any part of this procedure, ensure that the main power is disconnected from any power source, and USB cable is unplugged.

    • If you are not comfortable working with high voltage connections, consult a certified electrician to perform this procedure for you.

  2. Open the electrical box using a large flathead screwdriver. Install the solid state relay in between the end cap and the rightmost connection on the rail, as shown. Use a small screwdriver to move the relay's connector clip down onto the rail, once it is in place.
    • Open the electrical box using a large flathead screwdriver.

    • Install the solid state relay in between the end cap and the rightmost connection on the rail, as shown.

    • Use a small screwdriver to move the relay's connector clip down onto the rail, once it is in place.

    • Using the provided wiring, feed the two shrink-wrapped ends, and the brown wire, through the bottom of the electrical box, after removing an appropriate plastic grommet.

  3. From the brown wire, connect the red and yellow wire ends to the left and right screw terminal (respectively) TC1 on the Azteeg.
    • From the brown wire, connect the red and yellow wire ends to the left and right screw terminal (respectively) TC1 on the Azteeg.

  4. Connect high voltage wiring per diagram. The heated bed legs are not polarized, so you can connect either set of three crimped contacts to either designated location. Route the white wires inside the panduit which is already present in the electrical box.
    • Connect high voltage wiring per diagram.

    • The heated bed legs are not polarized, so you can connect either set of three crimped contacts to either designated location.

    • Route the white wires inside the panduit which is already present in the electrical box.

    • This will provide some additional strain relief for the mains connection should the wire be pulled on from the outside of the electrical box.

  5. Mark the bed (REAR, FRONT, LEFT) Obtain the M5x35mm screws from the bed attachment hardware bag.
    • Mark the bed (REAR, FRONT, LEFT)

    • Obtain the M5x35mm screws from the bed attachment hardware bag.

    • Disconnect the four screws from the top of the bed plate, replace them with the M5x35mm screws, and secure with a small amount of tape.

    • Remove the bed and lay upside-down on a clean surface, taking careful note of which side is the LEFT SIDE of the bed. This is the side that the wires will protrude from.

    • Using brake parts cleaner or other non-residue cleaner, wipe down the bed of any dust, oil, or dirt.

    • With the protective plastic still installed on the bed, position the heated bad pad onto the metal bed, over the protruding screws.

  6. Cut a small amount (1-2 inches) of the protective plastic away from the RIGHT edge of the heated bed. Carefully affix the small strip of exposed adhesive to the metal bed, ensuring alignment with the corners, and screws still through the pre-drilled holes.
    • Cut a small amount (1-2 inches) of the protective plastic away from the RIGHT edge of the heated bed.

    • Carefully affix the small strip of exposed adhesive to the metal bed, ensuring alignment with the corners, and screws still through the pre-drilled holes.

    • Remove the two screws closest to the affixed end.

    • Ensuring the affixed part of the bed stays stable, and lift up the remaining part of the heated pad, removing the plastic sheeting.

    • Carefully lay the bed back down, guiding the M5 screws through the pre-drilled holes.

  7. Place the bed back onto the bed rails Insert two magic T-nuts (T-nuts that can be inserted after the rail is installed) into the bottom of the rear bed rail. Connect the panduit as shown.
    • Place the bed back onto the bed rails

    • Insert two magic T-nuts (T-nuts that can be inserted after the rail is installed) into the bottom of the rear bed rail.

    • Connect the panduit as shown.

    • Route the wiring bundle from the electrical box from the center of the rear panduit, up to the section of panduit connected to the rear bed rail.

  8. Install the bed with the electrical wires protruding from the left side of the bed. Obtain the remainder of the bed attachment hardware from the bag. Install the spring, washer, and nylock nut onto each of the four bolts.  Compress the spring to about 50% of its travel.
    • Install the bed with the electrical wires protruding from the left side of the bed.

    • Obtain the remainder of the bed attachment hardware from the bag.

    • Install the spring, washer, and nylock nut onto each of the four bolts. Compress the spring to about 50% of its travel.

    • Route the cabling from the bed to the panduit on the rear bed rail and connect the two connectors.

    • Tuck the excess cabling inside the panduit to minimize tangling.

  9. Replace the Z limit switch bolt M5 x 45mm BHCS with the longer one that is provided M5 x 70mm, to account for the greater thickness of your new heated bed.
    • Replace the Z limit switch bolt M5 x 45mm BHCS with the longer one that is provided M5 x 70mm, to account for the greater thickness of your new heated bed.

    • Upgrade the firmware of your Gigabot at https://re3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articl...

Conclusion

Have questions? Need help? Email support@re3d.org

5 other people completed this guide.

Chris Gerty

Member since: 08/04/2013

758 Reputation

5 Guides authored

12 Comments

What procedure should you follow if your kit came without the holes being pre-drilled in the mat? I am going to be in Houston later next week and can drop by. Mine is marked #111.

Mike Stewart - Reply

My mat wasn't drilled either. What I did was go ahead and attached the mat to the bed, then I simply flipped the bed over and used a #11x-acto knife to cut multiple slits in the mat thru the holes in the aluminum bed. The mat was easily to cut, and the screws went right through.

Darrel - Reply

Thanks! I ended up at the maker space in Houston and got it sorted out. A quick question though. Did yours come with the spiral wrap? Mine did not. I really should have checked the parts list before heading over there. :)

Mike Stewart - Reply

Yes and no - mine had spiral wrap that ran along the left edge of the bed, but none on the wires coming out of the electrical box. I found some 1/8" spiral wrap at Home Depot, and used that the wrap the loose white wires and the brown wire together from the power supply up to the Panduit. Seemed to work just fine.

Darrel - Reply

I have three thermocouple (brown) wires coming off of the heated bed. One of them has the yellow connector and that one is obvious. What about the other two? Am I missing something in the instructions? Right now, my heated bet temp is showing 937 degrees (the same as if nothing was connected to TC1.

Mike Stewart - Reply

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