Tools
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Included with your heated bed are all of the parts necessary to connect into the electrical box, and install your bed to your existing metal plate.
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During this procedure you will be exposing connection which during normal operation will see "mains" voltage (120/220VAC).
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When working on any part of this procedure, ensure that the main power is disconnected from any power source, and USB cable is unplugged.
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If you are not comfortable working with high voltage connections, consult a certified electrician to perform this procedure for you.
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Open the electrical box using a large flathead screwdriver.
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Install the solid state relay in between the end cap and the rightmost connection on the rail, as shown.
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Use a small screwdriver to move the relay's connector clip down onto the rail, once it is in place.
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Using the provided wiring, feed the two shrink-wrapped ends, and the brown wire, through the bottom of the electrical box, after removing an appropriate plastic grommet.
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From the brown wire, connect the red and yellow wire ends to the left and right screw terminal (respectively) TC1 on the Azteeg.
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Connect high voltage wiring per diagram.
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The heated bed legs are not polarized, so you can connect either set of three crimped contacts to either designated location.
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Route the white wires inside the panduit which is already present in the electrical box.
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This will provide some additional strain relief for the mains connection should the wire be pulled on from the outside of the electrical box.
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Mark the bed (REAR, FRONT, LEFT)
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Obtain the M5x35mm screws from the bed attachment hardware bag.
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Disconnect the four screws from the top of the bed plate, replace them with the M5x35mm screws, and secure with a small amount of tape.
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Remove the bed and lay upside-down on a clean surface, taking careful note of which side is the LEFT SIDE of the bed. This is the side that the wires will protrude from.
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Using brake parts cleaner or other non-residue cleaner, wipe down the bed of any dust, oil, or dirt.
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With the protective plastic still installed on the bed, position the heated bad pad onto the metal bed, over the protruding screws.
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Cut a small amount (1-2 inches) of the protective plastic away from the RIGHT edge of the heated bed.
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Carefully affix the small strip of exposed adhesive to the metal bed, ensuring alignment with the corners, and screws still through the pre-drilled holes.
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Remove the two screws closest to the affixed end.
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Ensuring the affixed part of the bed stays stable, and lift up the remaining part of the heated pad, removing the plastic sheeting.
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Carefully lay the bed back down, guiding the M5 screws through the pre-drilled holes.
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Place the bed back onto the bed rails
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Insert two magic T-nuts (T-nuts that can be inserted after the rail is installed) into the bottom of the rear bed rail.
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Connect the panduit as shown.
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Route the wiring bundle from the electrical box from the center of the rear panduit, up to the section of panduit connected to the rear bed rail.
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Install the bed with the electrical wires protruding from the left side of the bed.
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Obtain the remainder of the bed attachment hardware from the bag.
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Install the spring, washer, and nylock nut onto each of the four bolts. Compress the spring to about 50% of its travel.
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Route the cabling from the bed to the panduit on the rear bed rail and connect the two connectors.
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Tuck the excess cabling inside the panduit to minimize tangling.
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Replace the Z limit switch bolt M5 x 45mm BHCS with the longer one that is provided M5 x 70mm, to account for the greater thickness of your new heated bed.
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Upgrade the firmware of your Gigabot at https://re3d.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articl...
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