Hi Steve - we're working on some tutorial videos for 3D printing in general, and also some specific to the assembly of the Gigabot. They will show up at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYQ5gyb... as they are completed - we have a few up already but more will follow!
If you have suggestions for future subjects that are the most needed, please let us know? Thanks!
If I'm understanding correctly, you probably need to remove the threaded nut which inserts into the filament guide shelf, and re-screw it in after the shelf is placed into the position which lines up with the extruder. Also, check that your extruder is not facing the opposite direction (the large gear should be closest to the bridge rail). Email a photo to support@re3d.zendesk.com and/or support@re3d.org and we'll do our best to walk you through it.
***Actually you have two sets swapped with each other: The thick, red wires are for the cartridge heater, and polarity doesn't matter on those (the way I remember is that the most current flows through those, and they are thickest). The thermistor is the red and black wires that aren't from the fan.
The red and black wires from the fan can be tested (if you lose track) by checking for continuity between the contact and the small exposed metal on the fan itself.
The red and black wires from the thermistor can be tested when they are disconnected from anything else, by checking for the resistance between them with a multimeter, and watching it change as you heat up the thermistor with your breath, and cool it back down. The warmer the thermistor is, the less resistance it will show. If it is already connected, you will know by seeing a realistic temp reading (in deg C) on the Viki display immediately upon powerup.
Hope this helps - and that this exchange will help others as well!
Keep in mind that once you verify the pair of wiring you're connecting, the polarity only matters for the fan (Brown from electrical box is"-" on fan, green is "+"). The other two pairs (cartridge heater for hotend, and thermistor for hotend) are essentially resistors, and serve the same exact function regardless of polarity.
Yes, that one was confusing - sorry. I reworded it to clarify that you just should make sure those two t-nuts (which will eventually affix the electrical enclosure) are on the top and not underneath, for the bottom rail.
Hi Steve - we're working on some tutorial videos for 3D printing in general, and also some specific to the assembly of the Gigabot. They will show up at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYQ5gyb... as they are completed - we have a few up already but more will follow!
If you have suggestions for future subjects that are the most needed, please let us know? Thanks!
If I'm understanding correctly, you probably need to remove the threaded nut which inserts into the filament guide shelf, and re-screw it in after the shelf is placed into the position which lines up with the extruder. Also, check that your extruder is not facing the opposite direction (the large gear should be closest to the bridge rail). Email a photo to support@re3d.zendesk.com and/or support@re3d.org and we'll do our best to walk you through it.
***Actually you have two sets swapped with each other: The thick, red wires are for the cartridge heater, and polarity doesn't matter on those (the way I remember is that the most current flows through those, and they are thickest). The thermistor is the red and black wires that aren't from the fan.
The red and black wires from the fan can be tested (if you lose track) by checking for continuity between the contact and the small exposed metal on the fan itself.
The red and black wires from the thermistor can be tested when they are disconnected from anything else, by checking for the resistance between them with a multimeter, and watching it change as you heat up the thermistor with your breath, and cool it back down. The warmer the thermistor is, the less resistance it will show. If it is already connected, you will know by seeing a realistic temp reading (in deg C) on the Viki display immediately upon powerup.
Hope this helps - and that this exchange will help others as well!
-Chris
Sure - the version we have been referring to as Kickstarter V3.1 is here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/swq88e15t8apb6...
Ensure that the Y-axis homes in the correct directionafter installing - that was the incremental change in the 3.0 to 3.1 versions.
Keep in mind that once you verify the pair of wiring you're connecting, the polarity only matters for the fan (Brown from electrical box is"-" on fan, green is "+"). The other two pairs (cartridge heater for hotend, and thermistor for hotend) are essentially resistors, and serve the same exact function regardless of polarity.
PS - We're working on some breakout drawings.
Bingo - Good eye! Updated.
Yes, both rails. Changing this step to be clearer now.
Yes, that one was confusing - sorry. I reworded it to clarify that you just should make sure those two t-nuts (which will eventually affix the electrical enclosure) are on the top and not underneath, for the bottom rail.