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Find a suitable place to construct your Gigabot
  • Find a suitable place to construct your Gigabot

    • Find a firm, flat surface that is free from debris.

    • Try to assemble where Gigabot will be permanently printing

    • Keep in mind that once constructed, Gigabot will not fit through most standard doors

  • Skim through most of this guide, so that you understand the scope of what you need to do, and if you need help from a partner during assembly.

Use the bill of materials at http://???

Picture of all electronics and description?

Picture of all cables and description?

text list of every item and description?

pictures and descriptions of all hardware parts?

Luis Oscar Cruz - Reply

Locate 4 Corner Plates with no identifiers or logos. See Fig. 3-1. Insert an M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screw) in all 7 holes and fasten loosely with T-nuts. Locate 4 Triangle Braces. See Fig. 3-2.
  • Locate 4 Corner Plates with no identifiers or logos. See Fig. 3-1.

    • Insert an M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screw) in all 7 holes and fasten loosely with T-nuts.

  • Locate 4 Triangle Braces. See Fig. 3-2.

    • Insert 2 M5 x 12mm BHCS in each Triangle Brace. Use 2 M5 washers per BHCS. Loosely fasten a T-nut on the opposite end.

  • Note: DO NOT use Cross rail with “Gigabot” label until instructed to.

  • Locate 2 Cross rails (33.5” extrusion that has 2 tapped holes on each side )(not the Bed Cross Rails). See Fig. 3-3.

    • This will be the bottom/back cross portion of the frame.

Add Comment

Install 2 Corner Plates, one  to each end of of one Cross rail (this will be the rear/lower cross rail). See Fig. 4-1. Slide in Corner Plate with T-nuts loosened.  Ensure the edges are lined up and the bracket edges are flush with the bottom and end of each rail. Lightly fasten down the bolts to prevent movement. Temporarily screw 2 M5 x12mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 2 M5 washers per BHCS into T-nuts . Insert the 2 T-nuts in what will be the top channel of rail.  See Fig. 4-2.
  • Install 2 Corner Plates, one to each end of of one Cross rail (this will be the rear/lower cross rail). See Fig. 4-1.

    • Slide in Corner Plate with T-nuts loosened. Ensure the edges are lined up and the bracket edges are flush with the bottom and end of each rail. Lightly fasten down the bolts to prevent movement.

  • Temporarily screw 2 M5 x12mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 2 M5 washers per BHCS into T-nuts . Insert the 2 T-nuts in what will be the top channel of rail. See Fig. 4-2.

    • Note: The BHCS and washers will be used later to fasten vertical rails that hold the power box.

  • Fasten a Triangle Brace to each end of rail (lower inner channel). See Fig 4-3.

    • Place near end and keep T-nuts loose to allow for adjustment.

Do we do add corners to both rails?

David Wilton - Reply

Yes, both rails. Changing this step to be clearer now.

Chris Gerty -

Locate the 30” long Panduit, this is slightly shorter, and approx. one half the width and height of the larger and longer 30.5" Panduit. See Fig. 5-1. Fasten 3 M5x8 mm BHCS (button head cap screws) evenly along length, and 3 T-nuts to the Panduit piece as shown in Fig. 5-1. Spacing of the t-nuts along the Panduit is not critical for this step.
  • Locate the 30” long Panduit, this is slightly shorter, and approx. one half the width and height of the larger and longer 30.5" Panduit. See Fig. 5-1.

    • Fasten 3 M5x8 mm BHCS (button head cap screws) evenly along length, and 3 T-nuts to the Panduit piece as shown in Fig. 5-1. Spacing of the t-nuts along the Panduit is not critical for this step.

  • Keep the bolts loose to slide the Panduit to the top inside channel of the rail, then tighten the bolts. See Fig. 5-2.

    • Ensure proper orientation of the rail with respect to the Corner plates, by observing 2 T-nuts on the upper channel. See Fig. 5-2.

Which are the appropriate aluminum cross-braces to install the cable trays?

Where do the 2 long cable trays go?

Where do the 3 very short cable trays go?

How much screws each long cable tray needs?

Luis Oscar Cruz - Reply

There are usually 3 screws for each Panduit length. Two for the very short ones. If you look at the image at the top of the guide carefully, you can see the overall arrangement of the Panduits on Gigabot.

Chris Gerty - Reply

Not sure what the last instruction about orientation is trying to tell us.

David Wilton - Reply

Yes, that one was confusing - sorry. I reworded it to clarify that you just should make sure those two t-nuts (which will eventually affix the electrical enclosure) are on the top and not underneath, for the bottom rail.

Chris Gerty -

Locate 2 Side Plates, 2 Common Rails (31.5" long) and 2 12” Panduit pieces (shallow Panduit). Observe orientation of bolt hole patterns.   See Fig. 6-1. Insert 4 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) on each side plate. Loosely put on T-nuts. The 4 BHCS should be inserted in opposing directions on each plate. See Fig. 6-2 for orientation of front.
  • Locate 2 Side Plates, 2 Common Rails (31.5" long) and 2 12” Panduit pieces (shallow Panduit). Observe orientation of bolt hole patterns. See Fig. 6-1.

  • Insert 4 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) on each side plate. Loosely put on T-nuts.

    • The 4 BHCS should be inserted in opposing directions on each plate. See Fig. 6-2 for orientation of front.

  • Slide 1 common rail on the "inside" side of each side plate and center the rail. See Fig. 6-3.

Same concern, that picture doesn't give enough information on the side and orientation to put the extrusion bar and how the position of the extrusion differs from the top side plates vs the bottom side plates.

Luis Oscar Cruz - Reply

Here are some additional pictures of the parts in this step:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

Additionally, the common rails are approximately 31.5" long.

Also notice that the hole in the end of the rail does not have screw threads in it.

David Wilton - Reply

Thanks for linking to the photos.

Matthew J Fiedler -

Here is a picture from thier additional photos section showing all T-Nuts installed:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zua2004c6ykxr...

David Wilton - Reply

Install Panduit on each side rail.
  • Install Panduit on each side rail.

    • DO NOT tighten bolts at this time.

    • Fasten 2 M5x8mm BHCS and 2 T-nuts to the Panduit piece.

    • With BHCSs loose, slide the Panduit to the top, inside channel of the rail. See Fig. 7-1 for orientation.

    • Repeat for other side. Then add 6 M5X8mm BHCS to 6 T-nuts above rail on side plates as shown in picture.

  • Warning!!! Warning!!! Warning!!! This step is easy to miss, because these T-nuts are not used until step 18. And it can't be done later. Insert 2 T-nuts into the top channel of each Common Rail installed on the side plates. These T-nuts can be seen in the top channel near the end of the Panduit in Fig. 7-1.

Add Comment

Orient each side rail on table and connect with the Rear / Lower Cross Rail assembled in step 5 and 6, by sliding the T-nut of the Triangle Brace on each side into the lower channel of each side rail. See Fig. 8-1 Ensure all of the BHCS (button head cap screws) are still loose in the Corner Plates and the Triangle Braces. Square the corner and screw in 2 M5 x 12mm BHCSs on each end of the Cross Rail.  These are the 2 tapped holes on each end of the rail.  See Fig. 8-2.
  • Orient each side rail on table and connect with the Rear / Lower Cross Rail assembled in step 5 and 6, by sliding the T-nut of the Triangle Brace on each side into the lower channel of each side rail. See Fig. 8-1

  • Ensure all of the BHCS (button head cap screws) are still loose in the Corner Plates and the Triangle Braces. Square the corner and screw in 2 M5 x 12mm BHCSs on each end of the Cross Rail. These are the 2 tapped holes on each end of the rail. See Fig. 8-2.

Add Comment

Position front/lower Cross rail assembly in front to complete the square of the frame base.  Assembly should be similar to Rear/Lower Cross Rail assembly See Fig. 9-1. Do not tighten bolts yet. Square the corners (without tightening any bolts).
  • Position front/lower Cross rail assembly in front to complete the square of the frame base. Assembly should be similar to Rear/Lower Cross Rail assembly See Fig. 9-1.

    • Do not tighten bolts yet.

    • Square the corners (without tightening any bolts).

    • Insert 2 M5 x 12mm BHCS (button head cap screws) through the side plates into the ends of the Cross rail (these are the 2 tapped holes on each end of the rail).

  • Align the frame and then tighten the bolts in this order:

    • While compressing the front to back of each side, tighten M5 x 12mm BHCS (4 /side or 8 total). Tighten M5 x 8mm bolts on each side plate. (4 /side or 8 total). See Fig. 9-2.

    • Tighten both bolts in each of the 4 triangle braces. While tightening, pull each brace into the corner to ensure it is flush against each Cross and Common rail (8 total). See Fig. 9-3.

Add Comment

Locate the 4 Z-Uprights.  These have a notch cut on one end. Do not tighten T-Nuts yet. Insert 6 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) in each bottom side plate. Attach T-nuts. See Fig. 10-1.
  • Locate the 4 Z-Uprights. These have a notch cut on one end.

    • Do not tighten T-Nuts yet.

    • Insert 6 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) in each bottom side plate. Attach T-nuts. See Fig. 10-1.

  • Install each Z-upright with the notch facing up and inside frame. See Fig. 10-2.

    • After the extrusion is in place, center it with respect to the bolts (while loose move back and forth and feel for the center position).

    • Square each one at a time and tighten the bolts. See Fig. 10-3.

The Z-upright beams are not symmetrical. There is a slot on the smooth inside surface that is off to one side. I have 3 Z-uprights with the slot on the left and one with the slot one the right. Is this going to matter? My anal retentive side wants there to be 2 lefts and 2 rights, with all the slots toward the back or front or center or outside.

Kurt Schuster - Reply

Sorry to be slow to respond to you on this one. You are very observant. That slot within the rail serves no purpose, except to sometimes provide a slot for an allen wrench to fit into while rotating (especially on the Y-axis rails while tightening belts). All Z-uprights are interchangable. Be sure that they are truly square to the side rails though - any difference in distance between Z-uprights over the travel of the entire Z-axis could cause problems.

Chris Gerty - Reply

Locate 2 Side plates. Insert 10 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) with T-nuts into each side plate (these will be used to fasten to the Z-uprights). See Fig. 10-1. Locate 2 Runway Rails (Y-axis). Each rail has a single hole on one side and 2 holes on the other.
  • Locate 2 Side plates.

    • Insert 10 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) with T-nuts into each side plate (these will be used to fasten to the Z-uprights). See Fig. 10-1.

  • Locate 2 Runway Rails (Y-axis). Each rail has a single hole on one side and 2 holes on the other.

  • Slide one Runway Rail to each side plate. See Fig. 10-2.

    • Note the location of holes on the Runway Rails with respect to the hole pattern on the side plate. See Fig. 10-3.

This is what I understood them to mean:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

David Wilton - Reply

Slide right and left plates onto vertical supports.  Leave BHCS (button head cap screws) loose. See Fig. 11-1 and 11-2. Insert 2 M5 x 8mm BHCSs and T-nuts into remaining 2 holes at each end of each bottom slide plate.  (8 total) Insert 2 M5 x 8mm BHCSs and T-nuts into 2 holes, mirroring the holes from the previous step, at each end of each top slide plate. (8 total) See Fig. 11-3.
  • Slide right and left plates onto vertical supports. Leave BHCS (button head cap screws) loose. See Fig. 11-1 and 11-2.

  • Insert 2 M5 x 8mm BHCSs and T-nuts into remaining 2 holes at each end of each bottom slide plate. (8 total)

  • Insert 2 M5 x 8mm BHCSs and T-nuts into 2 holes, mirroring the holes from the previous step, at each end of each top slide plate. (8 total) See Fig. 11-3.

Add Comment

Locate 4 Common Rails (vertical supports for each corner of frame), and 2 31.5” Shallow Panduits For each corner, slide the common rail vertically down, starting at the top of frame. See Fig. 13-1. Starting with the 2 T-nuts at top corner on the side plate, slide down the rail to connect it with the 5 exposed T-nuts in each corner.
  • Locate 4 Common Rails (vertical supports for each corner of frame), and 2 31.5” Shallow Panduits

  • For each corner, slide the common rail vertically down, starting at the top of frame. See Fig. 13-1.

  • Starting with the 2 T-nuts at top corner on the side plate, slide down the rail to connect it with the 5 exposed T-nuts in each corner.

    • Do not fully tighten BHCS (button head cap screws) yet.

    • Once in place, loosely tighten up 5 BHCSs in each lower corner (3 BHCSs on Corner Plate and 2 BHCSs on Side Plates). See Fig. 13-2.

  • Install shallow panduit on each rear vertical rail. See Fig. 13-3. Note that the shallow Panduit is used on both vertical rails. The image shows deep panduit on one side, but it is actually only intended for the upper and lower rear rails.

    • Fasten 3 M5 x 8mm BHCS and 3 T-nuts onto each panduit piece. With the bolts still loose, slide the panduit to the inner channel of the vertical. Tighten bolts at this time.

I don't understand. The first thing step 13 says is to find one shallow and one deep panduit of 31.5" but then it says both should be shallow panduits and even clarifies that the image shows a deep panduit but it should really be a shallow one.

I have only one big shallow panduit. ??

Luis Oscar Cruz - Reply

HI Luiz,

We made the decision to change to the shallow panduit for that location after you received your kit. It really doesn't matter, it just makes for a cleaner system with smaller cable management trays. However, the deep panduit is actually more useful if you intend to customize your bot, or if you have supplied your own wiring - which I think will both apply to you soon. :)

Cheers!

-Chris

Chris Gerty - Reply

There needs to be clarity for Panduit lengths, depths and widths. We had two differnt types: Panduit CODE 00670 and CODE 00126. CODE00126 is 1" wide on solid base, 1-/16" deep, with holes and slots. CODE00670 is 5/8" wide on solid base, 5/8" deep with holes. We mounted the 0670 Panduit on base bottom Front, back and short pieces on sides. 0126 Panduit was mounted on back vertical rails. But getting the 0126 Panduit to "slip" down the rails is not possible due to an offset of about 1/4" between rail slot and T-nut location. We had to drop the T-nut down the slot first, then hold the Panduit against the rail and coax the T-nut up the rail slot with a toothpick, then capture the T-nut with the screw when it appeared in the appropriate hole. I sure hope we installed the Panduits properly, but it was a guessing game and quite confusing.

jim galis - Reply

Locate 4 Corner Plates, including the one with the Gigabot logo and the one with the Serial number.
  • Locate 4 Corner Plates, including the one with the Gigabot logo and the one with the Serial number.

  • Locate 2 Cross rails (33.5” extrusion with 2 tapped holes on each side).

    • If one of the 2 remaining Cross supports located has a “Gigabot” label, this Cross rail will be used for the front.

  • Insert an M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screw) in each of 7 holes of each of the 4 Corner plates and fasten loosely with T-nuts. See Fig. 14-1.

My Gigabot logo plate was stuck on the narrow side of two common rails instead of on the wide side of one common rail. Pulled it off and reapplied to the wide side of one rail.

jim galis - Reply

Attach the re:3D Logo Corner plate to the left and blank Corner Plate to the right. Front Cross Rail Preparation:  Slide in the Corner Plate with T-nuts loosened. Ensure the edges are lined up and that the bracket edges are flush with the edge and end of each rail. Rear Cross Rail Preparation:  Prior to installing the corner plate, place 2 T-nuts on the outside/upper channel and 1 T-nut on the outside/lower channel.  Attach the rear filament guide / bracket. See Fig. 15-1.
  • Attach the re:3D Logo Corner plate to the left and blank Corner Plate to the right.

  • Front Cross Rail Preparation: Slide in the Corner Plate with T-nuts loosened. Ensure the edges are lined up and that the bracket edges are flush with the edge and end of each rail.

  • Rear Cross Rail Preparation: Prior to installing the corner plate, place 2 T-nuts on the outside/upper channel and 1 T-nut on the outside/lower channel. Attach the rear filament guide / bracket. See Fig. 15-1.

    • Attach the Serialized Corner Plate so that the text is readable and the blank Corner Plate on the other side. Ensure the edges are lined up and that the bracket edges are flush with the edge and end of each rail. See Fig. 15-2.

    • This step is easy to miss too! Place 2 T-nuts in the bottom channel of rear / upper cross rail. Secure with 2 M5 x 12mm BCHS (button head cap screws) and 2 washers each.

    • When this Cross Rail is installed these T-nuts and washers will mirror the 2 T-Nuts and washers on the bottom Cross Rail.

  • Slide in the rear and front Cross rail assemblies to the respective sides of the frame from the top. Do not tighten. See Fig. 15-3.

Where are the other four triangle braces used?

David Wilton - Reply

There should be total of eight Triangle Braces. Four used in step 8 and four in step 38.

Matthew J Fiedler -

Ahhh, in step 8 they are called triangle braces and in step 38 they are called triangular braces. Thus, my search for triangle brace did not detect them.

David Wilton - Reply

Install Panduit on right plate.  Use 7” length “shallow” Panduit for right support. For this installation, hold the Panduit in position and insert 2 M5 x 8mm BCHS (button head cap screws) from outside, then fasten with 2 M5 hex nuts from the inside. Tighten bolts at this time.  See Fig. 16-1. Insert 2 M5 x 12mm BCHS through the side plates into the end of each cross rail (8 total).  DO NOT tighten. See Fig. 16-2.
  • Install Panduit on right plate. Use 7” length “shallow” Panduit for right support.

    • For this installation, hold the Panduit in position and insert 2 M5 x 8mm BCHS (button head cap screws) from outside, then fasten with 2 M5 hex nuts from the inside. Tighten bolts at this time. See Fig. 16-1.

  • Insert 2 M5 x 12mm BCHS through the side plates into the end of each cross rail (8 total). DO NOT tighten. See Fig. 16-2.

  • Insert 3 M5 x 45mm BCHSs on each side of top side plate.

    • 2 go through the side plate and Runway Rail (Y-axis), near the rear of frame, and 1 goes through the side plate and Runway Rail (Y-axis) near the front of frame.

    • Placement is to ensure frame is aligned. These bolts will be removed in a later step and will be used to attach the Y-Axis motors. See Fig. 16-3.

Add Comment

  • This is a 2-person operation. Ensure the top of the Runway Rails (Y-axis) is aligned with the top of the corner uprights, then tighten bolts in this order:

    • While compressing the front and rear of each side, tighten M5 x 12mm BCHS (button head cap screws) (8 total).

    • Tighten 4 M5 x 8mm BCHS on each side plate. (8 total)

    • Tighten 3 loose bolts in each of the 4 corner plates.

    • Tighten all bolts on the mid section of the side plate. (10 each side)

  • Remove the 3 M5 x 45mm BCHS from each side.

  • All bolts on the frame should now be tight and the frame should be square.

Add Comment

Locate 2 Lower Bearing Blocks, 2 Upper Bearing Blocks, 2 Z Motor Pulleys, 2 XML Belts (Z-axis), 2 nut cups, 2 ACME threaded rods and 2 threaded rod pulleys. Install the Lower bearing blocks on each side (right and left) using the 2 T-nuts already installed and 2 M5 x 12mm BCHS (button head cap screws).
  • Locate 2 Lower Bearing Blocks, 2 Upper Bearing Blocks, 2 Z Motor Pulleys, 2 XML Belts (Z-axis), 2 nut cups, 2 ACME threaded rods and 2 threaded rod pulleys.

  • Install the Lower bearing blocks on each side (right and left) using the 2 T-nuts already installed and 2 M5 x 12mm BCHS (button head cap screws).

  • Position as shown in Fig. 18-1. Keep bolts loose.

  • Install nut cup on ACME Rod towards bottom of rod (end with 2 flat edges on tip). See Fig. 18-2 for orientation of nut cup.

    • Warning: Threaded rod may have a very sharp thread on bottom (first thread).

A picture of all the parts:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

A picture of how the parts fit on the threaded rod:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

David Wilton - Reply

The step talks about a threaded rod pulley and a Z Motor Pulley. The picture that came with an earlier comment to this step shows a larger pulley and a smaller pulley. Which is the Z motor pulley and which is the threaded rod pulley? The last bulleted item in step 17 discusses putting the threaded rod pulley 1/16" off the bottom of the threaded rod, but the first step in step 18 says to put the Z motor pulley on the bottom of the threaded rod. Are they both supposed to go on the bottom of the threaded rod? The pictures only show one, but due to scale, I can't tell if it is the larger or smaller threaded rod pulley. And if only one goes on the bottom, where does the other one go?

Tom - Reply

Hey Tom, sorry for the confusion. We fixed that typo. Feel free to contact me at support@re3d.org if you have any further questions.

mike -

what is the right orientation of the nut cup. I saw picture where the "nut sticking up" faces up and other pictures facing down. does it mater as long as both sides are on the same orientation?

carlos p - Reply

Note: Repeat the following operations for the left and right sides. When installing the two threaded rod pulleys be sure they are positioned 1/16" above the shoulder on the bottom of the threaded rod. Once assembled this will ensure there is a small air gap between the belt pulley and the bearing below it. Install threaded rod pulley on lower end of  ACME rod (end with 2 flat edges on tip). Tighten 2 set screws against the flat edges of Z-rod.
  • Note: Repeat the following operations for the left and right sides.

  • When installing the two threaded rod pulleys be sure they are positioned 1/16" above the shoulder on the bottom of the threaded rod. Once assembled this will ensure there is a small air gap between the belt pulley and the bearing below it. Install threaded rod pulley on lower end of ACME rod (end with 2 flat edges on tip).

  • Tighten 2 set screws against the flat edges of Z-rod.

  • Loop XML belt around pulley. See Fig. 19-1.

  • Install this Z-rod subassembly by first inserting pulley end into lower bearing.

  • Install upper bearing block onto Z-rod subassembly. Using 2 M5 x 12mm BCHS (button head cap screws), fasten the upper bearing to the inside of the side plate and then tighten the bolts. See Fig. 19-2.

  • Before tightening the lower bearing block, check the vertical alignment using the two sight holes and the supplied alignment tool (U-shaped 3D printed item in snappy box) on the bottom side plate as seen in Fig. 19-3. Tighten the bolts once alignment is verified.

I'm not sure what 3D printed U shape is being referenced here. Can anyone put up an image of the 3D printed object and maybe a short description of how it's used?

Steven Merritt - Reply

I found out where it was. It was in a zip-lock type bag top 4th from the right in the tray of nuts and bolts.

Steven Merritt - Reply

After we got things together and tried using pronterface to issue z axis commands we noticed the right side ACME nut was causing issues not allowing fluid movement of the screw rod. Turns out the nut wasn't square in its housing after a quick press with a bench vice it operated smoothly.

Nate Howard - Reply

Locate 2 Stepper Motors (note there are two type of ground shafts, use the motors with shorter flats),  2 Z-motor shelf, 2 Z-motor pulleys, 8 M3 x 8 mm SHCS (socket head cap screws), 8 M3 (tiny) washers, 4 M5 x 8mm BCHS (button head cap screws). See Fig. 20-1. Note: Repeat the following for the left and right Z-axis motor installation. Use Fig. 20-2 to properly orient the Z-motor shelf with respect to motor - the left and right orientations are different.
  • Locate 2 Stepper Motors (note there are two type of ground shafts, use the motors with shorter flats), 2 Z-motor shelf, 2 Z-motor pulleys, 8 M3 x 8 mm SHCS (socket head cap screws), 8 M3 (tiny) washers, 4 M5 x 8mm BCHS (button head cap screws). See Fig. 20-1.

  • Note: Repeat the following for the left and right Z-axis motor installation. Use Fig. 20-2 to properly orient the Z-motor shelf with respect to motor - the left and right orientations are different.

  • Put the shelf in place and attach it using 4 M3 x 8 mm SHCS with 1 washer per screw. Leave screws slightly loose to allow for slop during belt installation. See Fig. 20-2.

    • Keep amount of slop to a minimum here, since you will have a very awkward angle to turn the bolts to a final tightness.

It is mentioned that there are two types of stepper motors, with different types of ground shafts. What is a ground shaft? We are told to use the motors with shorter flats. What are flats? My kit came with 6 motors, all look identical, except that 3 have gears attached to the shaft, and 3 don't. Which should I use?

Tom - Reply

Hey Tom, in your case all motors should work in all places. Earlier machines used different motors.

The flats are referring to the flat side of the motor shaft.

mike -

Note: Repeat the following for the left and right Z-axis motor installation. Use Fig. 20-2 to properly orient the Z-motor shelf with respect to motor - the left and right orientations are different. Install Z-motor pulley as shown in Fig. 21-1, then tighten set screw against flat part of shaft.
  • Note: Repeat the following for the left and right Z-axis motor installation. Use Fig. 20-2 to properly orient the Z-motor shelf with respect to motor - the left and right orientations are different.

  • Install Z-motor pulley as shown in Fig. 21-1, then tighten set screw against flat part of shaft.

    • When installed, you should be able to feel the shaft of the motor only slightly extending beyond the pulley.

  • Position motor assembly in installation location and slip the belt around the pulley.

  • Fasten the shelf to side plate using 2 M5 x 8mm BCHS (button head cap screws), then tighten the bolts.

  • Pull the motor away from the Z-rod assembly to put tension on the XML Belt (Z-axis), then tighten down the 4 M3 x 8 mm SHCS (socket head cap screws). See Fig. 21-2.

Add Comment

Add Comment

Locate the Left and Right endtruck plates, 8 V-groove wheels,  4 round spacers, 4 eccentric spacers, 8 M5 x 25mm BCHS (button head cap screws), 8 M5 split lock washers, and 8 M5 nuts. Note: Use Fig. 23-1 to distinguish left vs. right plate and clocking of round spacers vs. eccentric spacers.
  • Locate the Left and Right endtruck plates, 8 V-groove wheels, 4 round spacers, 4 eccentric spacers, 8 M5 x 25mm BCHS (button head cap screws), 8 M5 split lock washers, and 8 M5 nuts.

  • Note: Use Fig. 23-1 to distinguish left vs. right plate and clocking of round spacers vs. eccentric spacers.

  • Note: Although pictures may show 4 V-Groove wheels installed, initially only install the V-Groove wheels with round spacers.

  • Note: V-Groove wheels with round spacers are inboard - as viewed in Fig. 23-1 - the right side of the Left assembly and left side of the Right Assembly .

  • For each V-Groove wheel installation, install the M5x25 BHCS through the V-groove wheel and then the round spacer. Attach to the plate, fasten using 1 M5 split lock washer and 1 M5 nut and then tighten.

  • At this time only attach the round spacer wheel assemblies. See Fig. 23-2.

I believe 8 M5 hex nuts are also required in this step

Mike Ogrinz - Reply

Bingo - Good eye! Updated.

Chris Gerty -

Locate Bridge Rail (X-axis).
  • Locate Bridge Rail (X-axis).

  • Attach the Right end plate to rail using 2 M5 x 12mm FHS (flat head screw). See Fig. 24-1 for orientation.

  • Ensure rails on extrusion are facing the slot on the plate. Attach the left plate in a mirror fashion.

My bridge bar differs from the photo. When oriented with the one hole on the Right, the groove is on the lower part of the front of the bar, below the hole rather than as shown in the photo above the hole. I see comments on step 27 that seem to say that this is not a concern. Suggest updating the instructions to make that clear.

Jon Hirschtick - Reply

Locate the Belt sub assemblies. There are 3 total belts – the 2  Bridge Belts (Y-axis) (equal length) and 1 Trolley Belt (X-axis). See Fig. 25-1. Locate 3 Threaded tensioner blocks, 3 Un-threaded tensioner blocks, 3 M6 x 60mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 6 M5 x 20mm FHS (flat head screws). See Fig. 25-1.
  • Locate the Belt sub assemblies. There are 3 total belts – the 2 Bridge Belts (Y-axis) (equal length) and 1 Trolley Belt (X-axis). See Fig. 25-1.

  • Locate 3 Threaded tensioner blocks, 3 Un-threaded tensioner blocks, 3 M6 x 60mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 6 M5 x 20mm FHS (flat head screws). See Fig. 25-1.

  • Note: When this sub-assembly is complete, the head of each M6 x 60mm BHCS in the picture is adjacent to the un-threaded tensioner block.

  • Attach the belt ends - 1 to the threaded tensioner and 1 to the un-threaded tensioner by bending over the belts and squeezing them into their slots. See Fig. 25-2.

  • Ensure there is no more than 0.25" (¼") of the belt end protruding from the block, as in Fig. 25-2. Also ensure the belt is not twisted when attaching each end.

Add Comment

Use the 4 mm Allen wrench to expand the hole in the belt opening. See Fig. 26-1. Press in a M5 x 20mm FHS (flat head screw) into a tesioner hole and screw it in completely so that the head of the screw is flush. See Fig. 26-2. Repeat tensioner block installation for each of the 3 belts. See Fig. 26-3.
  • Use the 4 mm Allen wrench to expand the hole in the belt opening. See Fig. 26-1.

  • Press in a M5 x 20mm FHS (flat head screw) into a tesioner hole and screw it in completely so that the head of the screw is flush. See Fig. 26-2.

    • Repeat tensioner block installation for each of the 3 belts. See Fig. 26-3.

  • Note: Put aside the Timing Trolley Belt (X-axis) for now.

Add Comment

Locate 2 Stepper motors (long ground shafts), 2 motor mounts, 2 Black GT2 timing pulleys (plastic) and 8 M3 x 8mm SHCS (socket head cap screws). See Fig. 27-1. Note: The left and right Y-Axis motors are assembled in unique orientation. Place the Pulley on the shaft and fasten. The shaft should be level with the bottom of the bevel on the pulley.  See Fig. 27-2.
  • Locate 2 Stepper motors (long ground shafts), 2 motor mounts, 2 Black GT2 timing pulleys (plastic) and 8 M3 x 8mm SHCS (socket head cap screws). See Fig. 27-1.

  • Note: The left and right Y-Axis motors are assembled in unique orientation.

  • Place the Pulley on the shaft and fasten. The shaft should be level with the bottom of the bevel on the pulley. See Fig. 27-2.

  • Attach the blocks using the 4 M3 x 8mm SHCS. See Fig. 27-3.

  • Install the belt onto the motor.

  • Note: Use pictures to ensure proper orientation of the tensioner. Bolts should face to the inside.

  • With the teeth facing in, pull the belt around the pulley through the gap in the motor block. See Fig. 27-3. Pull the belt and push down at the same time to get the belt to slip in place between the pulley and motor block.

Pulley placement. This is the bevel that I think they are talking about:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

David Wilton - Reply

Locate  2 idler wheels. Attach the left Y-axis motor using 2 M5 x 45mm BHCS (button head cap screws) onto the rear left corner of the frame, then tighten (but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN) the bolts. See Fig. 28-1. Install the idler pulley: place a bolt through the side plate, 2 M5 washers , the pulley, 1 M5 washer, 1 M5 split lock washer, and 1 M5 nut, in that order. Tighten the bolt. See Fig. 28-2.
  • Locate 2 idler wheels.

  • Attach the left Y-axis motor using 2 M5 x 45mm BHCS (button head cap screws) onto the rear left corner of the frame, then tighten (but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN) the bolts. See Fig. 28-1.

  • Install the idler pulley: place a bolt through the side plate, 2 M5 washers , the pulley, 1 M5 washer, 1 M5 split lock washer, and 1 M5 nut, in that order. Tighten the bolt. See Fig. 28-2.

  • Note: The pulley is oriented with the recessed end facing toward the inside of the Gigabot.

  • With the Bridge assembly placed on the Y-axis rails, install the tensioner blocks to the side plates of the bridge, and use an M5 washer, M5 split lock washer, and an M5 nut to attach, but leave loose for a moment. See Fig. 28-3.

  • Pull the belt around the idler pulley. Take up slack in the pulley with the M6 bolts. Tighten nuts on the bridge side plate to lock into place.

  • Install lower wheels with eccentric spacers. This is difficult. Monitor clocking of eccentric spacer, and loosen upper wheels a bit if needed. Good job. Now repeat all of step 28 for the right side. When installing the exccentric spacer, ensure that it is installed with small lip slipping into the side plate hole.

One thing that would be helpfull, drill a hole on each to side rail at the exact height of the bolt head of the lower wheel. Then we could put the hex wrench through the frame to tighten the lower wheel nuts. Then we could just roll the bridge assembly forward or backward to get the other wheel nut.

David Wilton - Reply

Actually, you do have a hole, 5.5" from the front and 2" down from the top. Works very well for adjusting the eccentric wheels.

David Wilton - Reply

Cool, Glad you found it. I will make sure to note the instructions a little better so others can find that access hole for adjusting the lower v-groove wheel.

Matthew J Fiedler -

I assume we use a 44mm BHCS bolt here? Or do we use one of the 25mm? I assume side plate is referring to the top left side plate on the gigabot and not the left side plate on the moving part that rolls on the top of the gigabot?

Steven Merritt - Reply

Correct, The M5 x 45 BHCS are used to mount the Y axis motors to the upper side plate.

Matthew J Fiedler -

Ok, I want to make sure the bar I have is made correctly. The grove should be above the dots, with two dots on the left hand side and one dot on the right hand side (the one with the panduit on the top side) when you are at the front looking to the back? If so, I think my bar might be made wrong. Either that or I don't understand how this is supposed to be oriented. I don't suppose someone could post a video on youtube making this thing could they? I think that would make this infinitely easier to work through.

Steven Merritt - Reply

Hi Steve, The bar you have is correct. The groove along the length of the extrusion is cosmetic only and it does not matter if it goes up or down.

Matthew J Fiedler -

"With the Bridge assembly placed on the Y-axis rails, install the tensioner blocks to the side plates of the bridge, and use an M5 washer, M5 split lock washer, and an M5 nut to attach, but leave loose for a moment. See Fig. 28-3."

The picture doesn't show are the first M5 washers on the inside or the outside of the side plates of the bridge.

Aleksi - Reply

The instructions say the recessed part of the idler pully should face the inside of the Gigabot. Which side is considered the inside? Is it facing the front or the back?

Tom - Reply

I think I figured it out. Since the instructions didn't say where to put the Idle Pulley, I was installing it on the single hole side of the bridge rail. I think that it is actually supposed to go on the upper side rails near the front, and we should be installing 2 of them.

Tom -

The third bulleted item says to install an idler pulley. Where should we install the pulley? Should we install it on the side rail or the x-bridge rail? If on the side rail, should we install the left and the right? Also, what size bolt should we use?

Tom - Reply

What does monitor clocking of eccentric spacer mean?

Tom - Reply

How much tension should we put on the belt? Should it be really tight, or just tight enough to not slip off? Also, the X-Bridge rail seems to slide smoothly, but it takes a fair amount of force to move it once I connected it to the two motors. Is that normal? Is there an expected amount of force it should take? I can get a spring scale and measure the force to move it if there seems to be a problem. Lastly, if I tighten down the nuts that attach the wheels to the left and right Truck Assembly, the X-Rail Bridge rail requires more force to move. Should I just be snugging down these nuts and not be tightening them down completely.

Tom - Reply

Instructions for adding idle pulley are not clear at all. Need to identify that the hole at front end of rail is install location.

jim galis - Reply

Install Extruder shelf onto trolley plate using M5 x 12mm FHS (flat head screws). See Fig. 29-1. Install two V-groove wheels with round spacers using one M5 x 25mm BHCS, one M5 split lock washer and one M5 nut per wheel. See Fig. 29-2. Attach the tensioner to the trolley plate using the 3rd belt from step 25. See Fig. 29-3.
  • Install Extruder shelf onto trolley plate using M5 x 12mm FHS (flat head screws). See Fig. 29-1.

  • Install two V-groove wheels with round spacers using one M5 x 25mm BHCS, one M5 split lock washer and one M5 nut per wheel. See Fig. 29-2.

  • Attach the tensioner to the trolley plate using the 3rd belt from step 25. See Fig. 29-3.

Add Comment

Hang the trolley plate on the bridge rail. See Fig. 30-1. Attach the eccentric wheels using one M5 x 25mm BCHS,  one eccentric spacer, one M5 split lock washer and one M5 nut. While attaching, make sure the belt is between the wheels. See Fig. 30-2. Attach the X pulley idler. Refer to the picture of the other idler for visual of the parts and orientation (step 28).
  • Hang the trolley plate on the bridge rail. See Fig. 30-1.

  • Attach the eccentric wheels using one M5 x 25mm BCHS, one eccentric spacer, one M5 split lock washer and one M5 nut. While attaching, make sure the belt is between the wheels. See Fig. 30-2.

  • Attach the X pulley idler. Refer to the picture of the other idler for visual of the parts and orientation (step 28).

  • Attach the idler pulley. Ensure the pulley is oriented so that the depression is outside, then tighten the bolts with 2 washers and 1 nut. See Fig. 30-3.

The second bullet instructs us to attach the X Idler pulley and the third bullet talks about attaching the idler pulley. Are they talking about the same pulley?

Tom - Reply

Locate stepper motor with ground shaft, Motor Mount block and 4 M3 x 8mm SHCS bolts. See Fig. 31-1. Attach pulley the same way as the Y motors.  Attach Motor Mounti block using the 4 M3 x 8mm SHCS. Attach belt to motor mount / pulley, then attach motor to bridge rail with two M5 X45mm BHCS (button head cap screws). See Fig. 31-2.
  • Locate stepper motor with ground shaft, Motor Mount block and 4 M3 x 8mm SHCS bolts. See Fig. 31-1.

  • Attach pulley the same way as the Y motors. Attach Motor Mounti block using the 4 M3 x 8mm SHCS.

  • Attach belt to motor mount / pulley, then attach motor to bridge rail with two M5 X45mm BHCS (button head cap screws). See Fig. 31-2.

  • Adjust eccentric wheels on trolley and end trucks to ensure contact of wheels to the rail while also maintaining smooth motion. See Fig. 31-3.

Which of my two remaining motors do I use for x axis? The longer or shorter flat shaft motor?

Jon Hirschtick - Reply

Am I missing something about the eccentric spacers. I don't see how they do anything that the round spacers don't do. There must be a reason that we are using them, but I don't see it.

Tom - Reply

Using 8mm wrench and allen wrench, turn spacers and feel for adequate contact. Tighten the nut to lock in the proper clocking of the eccentric spacer.
  • Using 8mm wrench and allen wrench, turn spacers and feel for adequate contact. Tighten the nut to lock in the proper clocking of the eccentric spacer.

  • Manually move the bridge rail back and forth, checking for smooth motion and contact of the wheels on the rail. Repeat for trolley and adjust eccentric spacers as needed.

  • Tighten the X and Y belts using the 4 mm allen wrench to turn the bolt on the tensioner. Belts should be in tension, but [???]. See Fig. 32-1.

That last part as it shows up on my computer reads "Tighten the X and Y belts using the 4 mm allen wrench to turn the bolt on the tensioner. Belts should be in tension, but [???]".

What does [???] mean? Was it supposed to say "Belts should be in tension, but easy to slide."?

Steven Merritt - Reply

Remove screws securing box cover and set aside cover. Insert the cable gland (for strain relief) on the left exit hole - this will shroud the head cable from the electrical box. See Fig. 33-1. Inside the box should be a terminal strip secured by 2 M3 X 18mm SHCS (socket head cap screws).
  • Remove screws securing box cover and set aside cover.

    • Insert the cable gland (for strain relief) on the left exit hole - this will shroud the head cable from the electrical box. See Fig. 33-1.

    • Inside the box should be a terminal strip secured by 2 M3 X 18mm SHCS (socket head cap screws).

  • Advance these bolts by approximately 6 turns - enough so that when placed on trolley plate, the bolts protrude through back of plate. See Fig. 33-2.

  • Carefully place front filament guide on opposite side of the trolley plate. Ensure the tapped holes on the extruder guide match the picture, and are offset, such that there is only a small gap between the right tapped hole and the right edge of the extruder guide.. See Fig. 33-3. Ensure that the front filament guide is aligned correctly.

    • While Holding box and guide in place, tighten the 2 bolts.

  • Temporarily reattach the box cover.

Please avoid using left/right when talking about a part that can be viewed from both side. Fig. 33-3 needs to be taken from the top to show how the non-symmetrical front

filament guide is correctly installed. A warning about what will happen if installed backwards would cause me to take extra care.

Kurt Schuster - Reply

Good call, Kurt. I took a new picture and tried to reword. If you have a better way to describe that, have at it. A further quote from our wiki at http://wiki.re3dprinting.com (soon to be http://wiki.re3d.org) is to "Look down filament guide hole on filament guide shelf (installed during terminal box attachment). Ensure hole is directly above filament entrance to extruder. If it is offset, remove terminal box and flip filament guide shelf such that filament will guide directly into extruder."

Obviously you can't do that until the extruder is attached, but I think it helps to double-check once it is later.

Thanks for the comment - Keep them coming!

-Chris

Chris Gerty - Reply

Look down the filament guide hole on filament guide shelf (installed during terminal box attachment). Ensure the hole is directly above filament entrance to the extruder.

If it is offset, remove terminal box and flip the filament guide shelf such that filament will guide directly into extruder.

David Wilton - Reply

Locate extruder parts – 2 bags: 1 with brown or black plastic parts and 1 with metal. See Fig. 34-1.
  • Locate extruder parts – 2 bags: 1 with brown or black plastic parts and 1 with metal. See Fig. 34-1.

  • To assemble these items, use the instructions here: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B80A_woX...

  • Note: Use 3rd stepper motor ground shaft for the extruder assembly

When assembling the extruder, I would drill out the holes in the base of the assembly a little, and press the nuts into the base prior to installing the motor. After the motor is installed, it becomes more difficult.

Additionally, the instructions call for a M3X35 bolt, mine was a M3X30 bolt.

Finally, I had to trim just a small bit out of the frame that holds the center bearing (in the Extruder Idler Block) to allow the bearing to turn smoothly.

David Wilton - Reply

The link for the assembly of the extruder does not work today. Is there other guideline

somewhere?

Marc Philippe - Reply

To assemble these items, use the instructions here:  https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B80A_woX... If hotend requires assembly, cut 15 inches of wire from the free end of the wire in the EPCOS 100k Thermistor installation kit and use this for next step. See Fig. 35-1 for final sub assembly. Attach extruder to trolley / extruder shelf.
  • To assemble these items, use the instructions here: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B80A_woX...

  • If hotend requires assembly, cut 15 inches of wire from the free end of the wire in the EPCOS 100k Thermistor installation kit and use this for next step. See Fig. 35-1 for final sub assembly.

  • Attach extruder to trolley / extruder shelf.

    • Insert hot end through shelf and lock into place using EITHER a wooden spacer (shown in Fig. 35-2) or two M4 button head screws (provided in the extruder hardware pack).

    • If you have received an extruder with two small holes in the front, this replaces the function of the wooden spacer to lock down the hot end. Image: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6swweyblqd3077...

  • Place extruder assembly on shelf and attach using 2 M5 X 25 BHCSs (button head cap screws). Keep bolts slightly loose. See Fig. 35-3.

The parts in my EPCOS 100k Thermistor with Install kit looked different from the Hot End J-Guide. Here is what is in my kit:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

The resistor is now already attached to the red high temperature wires and it is a cylindrical shape.

Two crimp-on connectors (since power resistor wires are already attached).

Since we are cutting off 15” of the red and black wire in step 34, look like we are not using any connectors (wire is screwed down in the terminal box on the print head trolley in step 45

).

I do not see any kapton tape so I do not know how they are planning on us keeping the thermistor in the head.

David Wilton - Reply

Okay, so this is what I am going with:

1. Cut the small clear tube in half and place one half on each of the thermistor wires.

2. place the larger white tube over one side of the 15” piece of wire that we cut off I step 34.

3. Slide the ferrules over either the red or black wires.

4. Insert the thermistor lead into the other end of that ferrule:

5. Crimp both ends of the ferrule:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

6. Repeat with the other wire.

7. Slide the larger white tubing so that it covers all the exposed exposed connection.

8. Heat the larger white tubing to shrink it:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

Installed:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

I do have kapton tape, so I am going to tape it in position.

David Wilton - Reply

Okay, it looks like they cut the larger white tube in half also and covered both connections (image 36-1)

David Wilton - Reply

In the sub bullet under bullet 3 I think the M4 Button Head screws should be M3 Socket Head screws. The 4mm screws will not fit in the holes in the extruder base, and there are no button head screws in the extruder hardware pack.

Tom - Reply

The 4th bullet item says to install the extruder to the extruder shelf with 2 M5x25 BHCS's. These M5's will fit, but they need to be screwed really hard through the plastic holes. It looks like the holes were made for M4 bolts. Also, there are insets on the top of the extruder base for the nuts. The M5 nuts will not fit in the inset, but M4 nuts seem to fit perfectly. There are 2 M4x20 Socket Head bolts left in the extruder hardware package. Should I use these other bolts?

Tom - Reply

Attach each fan by wedging in a metal plate between the cold-end and the extruder shelf. Fully tighten the BHC screws. See Fig. 36-1. Note: Before next step be sure to identify fan wires (red and black). Use small piece of tape. Cut 6 inches of Spriralite starting at the bottom.
  • Attach each fan by wedging in a metal plate between the cold-end and the extruder shelf. Fully tighten the BHC screws. See Fig. 36-1.

  • Note: Before next step be sure to identify fan wires (red and black). Use small piece of tape.

  • Cut 6 inches of Spriralite starting at the bottom.

    • Use the spiralite to constrain the thermistor, fan and heater wires. See Fig. 36-2.

    • Using 2 Zip ties, attach this to the trolley plate (see pictures). Snip off ends of unused zip tie. See Fig. 36-3.

  • Note: Keep the frame on table for now.

Guessing that we are using the M3X18 bolts with associated nuts?

David Wilton - Reply

When adding the extruder assembly to the shelf we used the M5x25 BHCS and a M5 nut, without the M5 nut the assembly was loose.

steve - Reply

The ceramic heater is a loose fit in the hot end.I am going to wrap the heater with aluminum foil for a better fit. Can thermal paste be used on the thermistor for a better fit?

Darrel - Reply

I assume we use M3X18 bolts with associated nuts for attaching the fan to the piece of metal?

Steven Merritt - Reply

After wrapping the wires with the spiralite, there is really no room between the gears and the trolley plate. If I wedge this in there so that I can get to the holes for the zip ties, it will rub like !&&* against the smaller gear. How should this be routed?

Tom - Reply

Hey Tom, the PDF guide is more up to date at this point and I'd recommend using that. The spiralite should hug the edge of the trolley plate along it's midpoint.

http://wiki.re3d.org/images/1/13/Parts_K...

mike -

So, My left fan touches the x limit switch. how did you guys fixes this problem? I assume the X lim switch should touch the trolley' edge see pic : http://1drv.ms/1SDhIn7

carlos p - Reply

Locate 2 common rails (last 2 remaining rails), power box with wires, the Viki unit, 4 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 4 T-nuts. See Fig. 37-1. Using fingers, needle-nose pliers or hemostats, put M5 x 8mm BHCS into the holes inside the power box. See Fig. 37-2. Place T-nuts onto each bolt (2 turns). Slide the common rail onto the T-nuts using the outside T slot.
  • Locate 2 common rails (last 2 remaining rails), power box with wires, the Viki unit, 4 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 4 T-nuts. See Fig. 37-1.

  • Using fingers, needle-nose pliers or hemostats, put M5 x 8mm BHCS into the holes inside the power box. See Fig. 37-2.

  • Place T-nuts onto each bolt (2 turns). Slide the common rail onto the T-nuts using the outside T slot.

    • Common rail edge and power box side should be flush.

  • Before tightening, slide the rail to within 3" (inches) of the base of the power box (the side with the black wire bundles).

  • Repeat for the second common rail. Fully tighten all 4 BHCSs.

Add Comment

Locate 4 triangular braces, 8 M5 x 12 mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 16 M5 washers.
  • Locate 4 triangular braces, 8 M5 x 12 mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 16 M5 washers.

  • Prior to attaching the upper triangular braces, insert 2 T-nuts into the outboard T slot of each common rail. These will be used later to fasten the filament spool holder.

  • Attach the triangular braces to outboard end of each common rail. Attach the bottom triangular braces so that they are flush with bottom edge of rail ends.

  • Attach the top triangular braces such that they do not extend beyond the rails. Temporarily tighten them in place. See Fig. 38-1.

Step 38

My way:

_

Locate 4 triangular braces, 4 M5 x 12 mm BHCS (button head cap screws) and 8 M5 washers.

_

Attach the triangular braces to the bottom outboard end of each common rail using 1 M5 x 12 mm BHCS, two M5 washers and a T-nut (flat face facing down) for each brace. Attach the bottom triangular braces so that they are flush with bottom edge of rail ends:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

_

The although the picture show the electrical box frame installed, the electrical box frame is not installed at this point. Just trying to show how the triangular braces are installed.

_

Slide two T-nuts into EACH outside slot (in the same slot that the triangular brace was just installed, these will be used for the spool holder later).

_

Attach the triangular braces to the top outboard end of each common rail using 1 M5 x 12 mm BHCS, two M5 washers and a T-nut (flat face facing up) for each brace. Attach the top triangular braces so that they are flush with top edge of rail end.

David Wilton - Reply

Locate 31.5” Deep Panduit. Loosely attach 3 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) with T-nuts. Prepare Filament Rod Holders – Install 2 M5 x 12 BHCSs with 2 washers per BHCS and the T-nut loosely fastened. See Fig. 39-1.
  • Locate 31.5” Deep Panduit.

  • Loosely attach 3 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) with T-nuts.

  • Prepare Filament Rod Holders – Install 2 M5 x 12 BHCSs with 2 washers per BHCS and the T-nut loosely fastened. See Fig. 39-1.

  • Pick up the power box with rails and place it in the rear of the frame. Start by aligning the bottom end of the rails to the cross rail. Cleats on the edge of the triangular braces should catch into the top T slot of the lower cross rail. See Fig. 39-2.

  • Prior to fastening the upper triangular braces and while holding the assembly in place, insert the Panduit from the top into the internal T slot on the left common rail. See Fig. 39-3.

  • Insert the Filament Rod holders into the outside T slot. Complete installation of the common rails into position and bring corner braces even with the edge, tightening all corner brace screws per instructions in the next step.

Step 39

Locate 31.5” Deep Panduit.

_

Loosely attach 3 M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) with T-nuts. Insert the Panduit from the top into the internal T slot on the left common rail. See Fig. 39-3.

_

Prepare Filament Rod Holders – Install 2 M5 x 12 BHCSs with 2 washers per BHCS.

_

Insert the Filament Rod holders into the outside T slot and attach to the T-Nuts installed in step 38. See Fig. 40-1

_

Remove the 4 M5 x 12mm BCHS (button head cap screws) and 8 washers installed in steps 4 and step 15 (two in the top rail and two in the bottom rail) and set them aside.

_

Pick up the power box with rails and place it in the rear of the frame. Start by aligning the bottom end of the rails to the cross rail. Cleats on the edge of the triangular braces should catch into the top T slot of the lower cross rail. See Fig. 39-2. The electrical box is facing toward the back.

David Wilton - Reply

Slide the bottom T-nuts to align with the bottom holes in the triangular braces.

Re-insert the M5 x 12mm BCHS (button head cap screws) and 2 washers (per triangular base hole) that had been set aside.

Repeat process with top two triangular bases and M5 x 12mm BCHS.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1736...

_

Temporarily tighten them in place. See Fig. 38-1.

_

Complete installation of the common rails into position and bring corner braces even with the edge, tightening all corner brace screws per instructions in the next step.

David Wilton - Reply

Question: where should the electrical box and vertical rail assembly be located left and right within the rear frame? I haven't seen any info on this placement so assumed center and went with that, but now in connecting the left and right motor cables I've found that the right Y motor wire barely reaches while there is plenty of slack in the left one. I would assume that I need to adjust the electrical box assembly to the right to account for this difference, but assuming was how I got here in the first place. Just want to make sure, any tips would be appreciated.

BILLY - Reply

Fasten the upper triangular braces in this order:
  • Fasten the upper triangular braces in this order:

    • Loosen BHCS (button head cap screw) going into the common rail (vertical rail).

    • Slide the triangular brace up to contact the cross rail.

    • Tighten the BHCS going into the upper cross rail.

    • Tighten the BHCS going into the common rail (vertical rail)

    • Repeat for the other upper triangular brace.

  • Fasten the bottom triangular braces, ensuring adequate contact to both the common (vertical rail) and cross rail. Slide each filament rod holder to a position 8" (inches) from the top and tighten the BHC screws. See Fig. 40-1.

Add Comment

Note: All wires are labeled on their ends. Pull all wires into the center of the frame except for the USB cable and power cable. See Fig. 41-1.
  • Note: All wires are labeled on their ends.

  • Pull all wires into the center of the frame except for the USB cable and power cable. See Fig. 41-1.

  • Locate the motor cables - 6 black wires (black wires with white labeling at the end. Each wire has a white connector attached to it.

  • If desired, remove a tooth on the Panduit to allow for all of the cables to enter the Panduit and follow parallel to the X–axis.

  • Pull the X-motor cable through the Deep Panduit on the vertical cross rail. Pull the Extruder motor cable through the same slot. See Fig. 41-2.

  • Pull left and right Y-motor cables through the shallow vertical Panduit on the rear of the left and right sides of the frame. Connect the Y motor connectors to the Y stepper motors.

Add Comment

Pull the left and right Z-axis cables through the left and right sides of the frame. Connect the Z motor cables to the Z stepper motors. See Fig. 42-1. Locate the gray Limit Switch wires, and the gray (thicker) "head" wiring. Run the X Limit switch and head wiring upward through the deep Panduit (the same path used for X Motor and Extruder Motor). See Fig. 42-2.
  • Pull the left and right Z-axis cables through the left and right sides of the frame. Connect the Z motor cables to the Z stepper motors. See Fig. 42-1.

  • Locate the gray Limit Switch wires, and the gray (thicker) "head" wiring.

  • Run the X Limit switch and head wiring upward through the deep Panduit (the same path used for X Motor and Extruder Motor). See Fig. 42-2.

  • Run the Y limit wire upward through the left (short) Panduit and run the Z limit wire upward through the right (short) Panduit. See Fig. 42-3.

Add Comment

Install the limit switches: The Z-limit switch on the top right side panel - put in 2 M2 x 18mm SHCS (socket head cap screws) and an electrical isolator. Insert the limit switch and fasten with 2 M2 washers. See Fig. 43-1. X Limit switch: using 2 M2 x 10mm SHC screws, fasten the limit switch to the bottom of the motor mount block of the X-axis motor on the left endtruck. See Fig. 43-2.
  • Install the limit switches:

    • The Z-limit switch on the top right side panel - put in 2 M2 x 18mm SHCS (socket head cap screws) and an electrical isolator. Insert the limit switch and fasten with 2 M2 washers. See Fig. 43-1.

    • X Limit switch: using 2 M2 x 10mm SHC screws, fasten the limit switch to the bottom of the motor mount block of the X-axis motor on the left endtruck. See Fig. 43-2.

    • Y Limit switch: using 2 M2 x 10mm SHC screws, fasten the limit switch to the motor mount block of the left Y-axis motor. See Fig. 43-3.

  • Limit switch connections (all 3):

    • For all limit switches, connect the red wire to the center post. Connect the black wire to the post adjacent to the fulcrum of the lever.

    • Ensure both Y and both Z motor connections are in place.

Add Comment

Position the bridge toward the back of the frame. Connect the X -axis and exterior stepper motor cables.
  • Position the bridge toward the back of the frame.

  • Connect the X -axis and exterior stepper motor cables.

  • Locate 6 inch steel rod and cut 9 inch section of Spiralite.

    • Note: Put a slight bend in the steel rod (see picture). This will ensure the bundle clears the Y stepper motor and limit switch in the home position.

  • Place one end of the steel rod adjacent to the front edge of the left endtruck. See Fig. 44-1. While holding the X-limit switch and the X-axis stepper motor cable together with the steel rod, wrap the spiralite around.

  • Once completely wrapped, zip tie this bundle to the left endtruck using 2 zip ties and the holes located on the top of the endtruck. Snip the extra tie off once fastened in place. See Fig.44-2.

Add Comment

Note: "Left" and "right" are still in reference to looking at the frame from the front. Take back cover off of the terminal box. Remove the right cable grommet. Insert the heater / thermistor / fan wire bundle through the grommet. Pull wires through the right opening, then loosely screw back in the right grommet.
  • Note: "Left" and "right" are still in reference to looking at the frame from the front.

  • Take back cover off of the terminal box.

  • Remove the right cable grommet. Insert the heater / thermistor / fan wire bundle through the grommet. Pull wires through the right opening, then loosely screw back in the right grommet.

  • Install wires (6) into the top row of screw terminals using Fig. 45-1 as a guide. For each wire, loosen the screw terminal, insert wire or post (some ferrules are provided) and tighten he screw. (If this is difficult, remove the terminal strip by loosening the 2 SHCS (socket head cap screws)).

  • Insert the head wire bundle through the left grommet: insert 2 wires at a time, then push the same wires (2 at a time) through the left grommet pass through on the box. Pull through enough wire to allow connection to the terminal block. See Fig. 45-2.

  • Connect the wires using the same method, this time to the bottom row of the terminal block. The exact position on the terminal block is not critical, but the matching of top and bottom row with intended wires is important. Positive of the fan goes above the green wire and the negative of the fan goes above the brown wire. See Fig. 45-3.

  • Put the back cover back on the junction box.

Question on the wiring...

Where are going the 2 wires from the FAN and the 2 wires from the thermistor ?

Thermistor in the center to [blue and white] ?

Richard Timsit - Reply

In image 45-3, the fan wires are the ones on the right side the image (left side, when looking from the front of the printer).

David Wilton - Reply

i miss drawings. this is one place where a labeled drawing or schematic would make words almost unnecessary.

Mark Taylor - Reply

it's unclear which wire pair is the fan, which the sensor wire.

the instruction (step 36) was to mark the fan motor wires with tape

but which wire goes where once in the box is not made clear

Mark Taylor - Reply

nvm *sheesh*

Mark Taylor - Reply

Keep in mind that once you verify the pair of wiring you're connecting, the polarity only matters for the fan (Brown from electrical box is"-" on fan, green is "+"). The other two pairs (cartridge heater for hotend, and thermistor for hotend) are essentially resistors, and serve the same exact function regardless of polarity.

PS - We're working on some breakout drawings.

Chris Gerty - Reply

Can someone tell me if I have this right?

Fan red = green

Fan black = brown

Thermistor (the thick red wires) (interchangeable) = red, black

Cartridge heater (the thin red,black wires that aren't from the fan) (interchangeable)= blue, white

Steven Merritt - Reply

***Actually you have two sets swapped with each other: The thick, red wires are for the cartridge heater, and polarity doesn't matter on those (the way I remember is that the most current flows through those, and they are thickest). The thermistor is the red and black wires that aren't from the fan.

The red and black wires from the fan can be tested (if you lose track) by checking for continuity between the contact and the small exposed metal on the fan itself.

The red and black wires from the thermistor can be tested when they are disconnected from anything else, by checking for the resistance between them with a multimeter, and watching it change as you heat up the thermistor with your breath, and cool it back down. The warmer the thermistor is, the less resistance it will show. If it is already connected, you will know by seeing a realistic temp reading (in deg C) on the Viki display immediately upon powerup.

Hope this helps - and that this exchange will help others as well!

-Chris

Chris Gerty -

Ok, so I was right on the fan. Do the thick red cartridge heater wires go to red and black? Do the red, black wires from the thermistor go tothe ble, white wires? Are thermistor wires interchangible?

Steven Merritt - Reply

Position the extruder head to the front right of the frame.
  • Position the extruder head to the front right of the frame.

  • Look down the filament guide hole on filament guide shelf (installed during terminal box attachment). Ensure the hole is directly above filament entrance to the extruder.

    • If it is offset, remove terminal box and flip the filament guide shelf such that filament will guide directly into extruder.

  • Locate push fittings (2) from "Snappy Box".

  • Screw one plastic push fitting into the filament guide shelf, and one into rear filament guide shelf. Push plastic filament guide into each of the push fittings.

  • Install filament guide rod (with curved end) through bottom of rear filament guide shelf. Loop hook around a M5x12mm BHCS ''(button head cap screw)' and tighten.

I took off the filament guide shelf and fliped it over. However, the filament guife can only be screwed in one way. Unfortunately, if I put it in that way it eill not line up with the extruder. Any ideas on what I should do?

Steven Merritt - Reply

If I'm understanding correctly, you probably need to remove the threaded nut which inserts into the filament guide shelf, and re-screw it in after the shelf is placed into the position which lines up with the extruder. Also, check that your extruder is not facing the opposite direction (the large gear should be closest to the bridge rail). Email a photo to support@re3d.zendesk.com and/or support@re3d.org and we'll do our best to walk you through it.

Chris Gerty -

I sent the photos to support@re3d.zendesk.com. I could flip the shelf upside down so that the hole lines up with the extruder but if I do that the nut will not go in because it can only go in one way. As for the extruder facing the correct direction, I have it facing the same direction as it is in the photo. A close look at the photo in the instructions reveals that you have the shelf slanted at an angle. SHould I have mine slanted at a angle rather than trying to get the filiment to go directly down into the extruder?

Steven Merritt - Reply

Starting approximately 3" (inches) from the extruder head, wrap the extruder motor, limit switch wires and head wiring with Spiralite. See Fig. 47-1. At the center of the wire bundle loop, the X-motor and X-limit switch wiring will enter the Spiralite bundle. The filament guide rod will also enter the bundle. See Fig. 47-2. At approximately 2" from the rear filament guide shelf the plastic filament guide and filament guide rod will exit the Spiralite bundle. See Fig. 47-3. Continue wrapping the remainder of the bundle until reaching approximately 6 inches inside the Panduit track.
  • Starting approximately 3" (inches) from the extruder head, wrap the extruder motor, limit switch wires and head wiring with Spiralite. See Fig. 47-1.

  • At the center of the wire bundle loop, the X-motor and X-limit switch wiring will enter the Spiralite bundle. The filament guide rod will also enter the bundle. See Fig. 47-2.

  • At approximately 2" from the rear filament guide shelf the plastic filament guide and filament guide rod will exit the Spiralite bundle. See Fig. 47-3. Continue wrapping the remainder of the bundle until reaching approximately 6 inches inside the Panduit track.

  • Use two 4 inch lengths of Spiralite to constrain the X motor and X limit switch cabling at convenient points in the bundle.

Add Comment

Locate 2 bed side plates, 2 bed cross rails, 8 V groove wheels, 8 M5 x 25mm BHCS (button head cap screws), 4 M5 x 45mm BHC screws, 3 square leveling blocks, and 1 limit switch leveling block. See Fig. 48-1. Locate 4 round spacers, 4 eccentric spacers, 20 M5 X 12mm BHCS (button head cap screws), 20 M5 washers, 8 M5 split lock washers, 4 leveling springs, 4 M5 X 8mm BHCS, 12 M5 nuts, 4 bed plate angles, 8 T-nuts and 4 M5 x 12mm FHS (flat head screws).  See Fig. 48-2 Note:  Something is incorrect with this parts list.  At least 4 M5 x 8 are needed to attach the angle brackets, 8 M5 x 25 for the v grove wheels and 8 m5 nuts. *** I think it's fixed now - please update further if something else is noticed. Thx! -cg
  • Locate 2 bed side plates, 2 bed cross rails, 8 V groove wheels, 8 M5 x 25mm BHCS (button head cap screws), 4 M5 x 45mm BHC screws, 3 square leveling blocks, and 1 limit switch leveling block. See Fig. 48-1.

  • Locate 4 round spacers, 4 eccentric spacers, 20 M5 X 12mm BHCS (button head cap screws), 20 M5 washers, 8 M5 split lock washers, 4 leveling springs, 4 M5 X 8mm BHCS, 12 M5 nuts, 4 bed plate angles, 8 T-nuts and 4 M5 x 12mm FHS (flat head screws). See Fig. 48-2

  • Note: Something is incorrect with this parts list. At least 4 M5 x 8 are needed to attach the angle brackets, 8 M5 x 25 for the v grove wheels and 8 m5 nuts. *** I think it's fixed now - please update further if something else is noticed. Thx! -cg

Add Comment

Place 2 T-nuts into the top T Slot of the bed rails. Note: The bed plate angle holes are unique. One is closer to the outer edge of the angle bracket (for the FHS) and one is more centered (for the t-nut and M5x8mm BHCS).
  • Place 2 T-nuts into the top T Slot of the bed rails.

    • Note: The bed plate angle holes are unique. One is closer to the outer edge of the angle bracket (for the FHS) and one is more centered (for the t-nut and M5x8mm BHCS).

  • For the next step use the holes that are centered to attach angles to the rail. Using M5 x 8mm BHC screws, fasten 2 bed plate angles to each bed cross rail. See Fig. 49-1.

  • Attach 2 round spacer wheel sets to the back end (closest to notch in plate). Place washer between plate and nut and tighten the screws. See Fig. 49-2.

Unfortunately, I used the excentric when I should have used the round spacers. The real problem though is that I have ruined the head on one of the 12 inch screws and cannot get it out. I have a drimmel and I think I can cut strait through it. I assume I can get spacers and screws that would be fine as a replacement at any hardware store?

Steven Merritt - Reply

I have added a corrected picture.   The spring goes between the block and rail.  See Step 60 for ref.''' Attach nut, block, spring, washer and T-nut to the M5 x 45mm BHCS (button head cap screw).See Fig. 50-1. Repeat steps for the second square leveling block.
  • I have added a corrected picture. The spring goes between the block and rail. See Step 60 for ref.'''

  • Attach nut, block, spring, washer and T-nut to the M5 x 45mm BHCS (button head cap screw).See Fig. 50-1.

  • Repeat steps for the second square leveling block.

  • Install the left bed side plate to the front bed rail by first inserting the "leveling block" T-nut (from the previous step) into the bottom T-slot of the rail. See Fig. 50-2.

  • Position the end of the rail onto the bed side plate to line up the 2 threaded holes on the end of rail with with the 2 holes on the plate. Fasten each with a M5 x 12mm BHC screw and a washer. Then attach the leveling block to the side plate with 2 M5 x 12mm BHC screws.See Fig. 50-2.

  • Repeat the previous steps for the rear side of the left bed side plate. Leave the front wheels disconnected for now (the ones with eccentric spacers). NOTE: Add two t-nuts to the bottom of the rear bed rail if a heated bed is panned (for Panduit attachment).

  • Repeat the above steps for the right side plate with these exception(s): For the right plate, use a limit switch leveling block for the back / right position instead of the square leveling block. See Fig. 50-3.

Add Comment

Attach Bed Plate to Frame: Position the bed assembly in the frame, resting the notched area on the Z-axis stepper motors. See Fig. 51-1. Position the nut cup assembly by aligning the holes with the bed plate sides. Using 2 M5 x 12mm BHCS (button head cap screws), attach the nut cups to the sides. Hand tighten.
  • Attach Bed Plate to Frame:

    • Position the bed assembly in the frame, resting the notched area on the Z-axis stepper motors. See Fig. 51-1.

    • Position the nut cup assembly by aligning the holes with the bed plate sides. Using 2 M5 x 12mm BHCS (button head cap screws), attach the nut cups to the sides. Hand tighten.

    • Attach 1 V-groove wheel using eccentric spacers to the top / front edge of each side plate. See Fig. 51-2.

    • Turn both threaded acme Z-rods (temporarily disconnect motor wires if desired for less friction) to lift the bed plate assembly off of the Z-axis stepper motors. Lift the bed about 1.5 inches - this will give better access to install the remaining V-groove wheels.

    • Install the bottom eccentric V-groove wheels.

    • Manually lower the bed plate by spinning the Z-rods again. Allow the notch edge of each plate to rest on Z-axis stepper motors. This will ensure bed is close to level prior to other adjustments. See Fig. 51-3.

I an editing step this to use the eccentric spacers on the front because we already used all the round spacers in step 49.

David Wilton - Reply

Tighten BHCSs (2 each side) holding nut cup assemblies to bed side plates. Make sure the V-groove wheels with round spacers (back wheels on each side) are tight.
  • Tighten BHCSs (2 each side) holding nut cup assemblies to bed side plates. Make sure the V-groove wheels with round spacers (back wheels on each side) are tight.

  • Finger tighten the eccentric V-groove wheels in front to where they are slightly beyond tight.

  • Adjusting the Eccentric wheels:

  • While pushing from the back of the bed, use the wrench on the eccentric spacer to adjust contact of V-groove wheel to V guide rail edge. Adjust for slight contact of wheel to the rail. Adjust both eccentric wheels on both sides of the bed plate.

  • Note: The more contact force, the more rigid. If contact is too little, there will be excessive movement in the bed during operation. However if contact force is too high, the friction will be such that the Z-axis stepper motors will not be able to move the table up and down freely (or the motors will be strained).

  • Tighten the eccentric wheels on the X axis carriage and the Y axis trucks. Insert the allen wrench into the access hole in the side plate to reach the M5 x 25 screw head. See Fig. 52-1.

  • Tension the X axis and Y axis belts using the 4mm allen wrench. Be careful not to tighten too much or the motors will stall during use. Once the belt tension is set, tighten the M5 nuts that fix the tensioner blocks to the bridge trucks.

Add Comment

The bed plate support structure should still be resting on motors. If you plan on installing a heated bed to your Gigabot, you can perform the steps found in Installing Your Heated Bed now or at any point in the future. Position the bed plate in place: Hole spacing is 16 inches right to left and 18 inches front to back. Turn the plate to position the angles on the bed plate structure until holes in both are aligned. See Fig. 53-1. Loosely attach the bed plate to the angles using the 4 M5 x 20mm FHS (flat head screws). Angles (previously secured by T-nuts) should also be loose at this time.
  • The bed plate support structure should still be resting on motors. If you plan on installing a heated bed to your Gigabot, you can perform the steps found in Installing Your Heated Bed now or at any point in the future.

  • Position the bed plate in place: Hole spacing is 16 inches right to left and 18 inches front to back. Turn the plate to position the angles on the bed plate structure until holes in both are aligned. See Fig. 53-1.

  • Loosely attach the bed plate to the angles using the 4 M5 x 20mm FHS (flat head screws). Angles (previously secured by T-nuts) should also be loose at this time.

  • Make sure rails are properly secured to bed plate:

    • Loosen the 2 BHCS (button head cap screws) on each end of the rails. Tighten the bolts (going through angles) that fasten the bed plate to the rails. See Fig. 53-2.

    • In each corner, position the rail in the center of the "top to bottom travel" with respect to the holes in the side bed plates and then tighten the M5 BHCSs. See Fig. 53-3.

    • Grease the threaded rods: Apply a light coat of grease from the packet supplied along the lengths of the threaded rods.

I have another bag with 4 5x20 FHS, 4 springs, 4 washers, and 4 lock nuts labeled "Bed Plate Hardware" I think this goes in place of the shorter screws, but when I tried the weight of the bed almost completely compresses the springs. Putting the springs below the L brackets doesn't seem to make sense. Where and how do I use these?

Lyle - Reply

Wrap 2 turns of electrical tape or similar onto the ends of the filament spool rod. Push rubber end caps into the ends of the taped filament rod. See Fig. 54-1. Caution: When releasing wrapped filament for first time, be sure that the end does not wrap beneath other loops. This will cause binding while feeding filament. Install the filament spool onto the filament rod with filament feeding upward on the inside of the spool. Place the rod on the holder. See Fig. 54-2.
  • Wrap 2 turns of electrical tape or similar onto the ends of the filament spool rod. Push rubber end caps into the ends of the taped filament rod. See Fig. 54-1.

  • Caution: When releasing wrapped filament for first time, be sure that the end does not wrap beneath other loops. This will cause binding while feeding filament.

  • Install the filament spool onto the filament rod with filament feeding upward on the inside of the spool. Place the rod on the holder. See Fig. 54-2.

  • Using a knife, angle cutters, or pencil sharpener, create an angled tip on the end of the filament.

  • Insert the filament all the way into the tube and draw the end down into the extruder. Ensure the two M3 bolts on the extruder are removed, then feed the filament into the small extruder hole. See Fig. 54-3.

  • Install M3 bolts onto the extruder, ensuring a washer and spring are present. Tighten each approximately 8.5 turns to obtain adequate pressure on the filament to the knurled bolt. See Fig. 54-3.

Add Comment

Orient the Viki LCD to view its display conveniently. Warning: If your local mains voltage is 220V, ensure that your power supply has been set to 220V input - the switch is located on the side of the power supply, or as indicated by inspection sticker.
  • Orient the Viki LCD to view its display conveniently.

  • Warning: If your local mains voltage is 220V, ensure that your power supply has been set to 220V input - the switch is located on the side of the power supply, or as indicated by inspection sticker.

  • Plug in the electrical box to 120V AC current.

  • Switch electrical box to “ON”. Ensure the Viki LCD shows “Gigabot Ready” on its display and that the temperature display shows approximately the ambient temperature in the room in degrees Celsius. See Fig. 55-1.

  • Perform the steps in the software installation quick start guide here: http://wiki.re3d.org. or http://wiki.re3d.org/index.php?title=Qui...

  • Close related applications before the next step.

When I flipped the switch the Viki turned on but it is displaying giberish. Anyone have any ideas as to what might be the problem?

Steven Merritt - Reply

  • Plug in Gigabot's USB cable into your computer. Open Pronterface (Printrun). Ensure communication rate is at 250000 and that the correct comm port is selected (it is usually the highest of the possible selections in the associated drop-down menu). Click on the “Connect” button. Note: I had to install

  • Observe the firmware's feedback on right side of the screen. The text "Connecting..." and "Printer is now online." should appear.

  • In the lower-right corner, type the manual G-code command "M119" to check the limit switches. All switches should return "open".

I had to install the driver from: http://pjrc.com/teensy/serial_install.ex...

on my Windows 7 computer before it would recognize the printer. The serial install added another com port.

David Wilton - Reply

Using your finger, depress the Z-limit switch lightly until it clicks. Hold this position and resend the "M119" command via Pronterface. See Fig. 57-1.
  • Using your finger, depress the Z-limit switch lightly until it clicks. Hold this position and resend the "M119" command via Pronterface. See Fig. 57-1.

  • Verify the "TRIGGERED" status for the "z_min" limit switch. Repeat this test for the Y ("y_max") and X ("x_min") limit switches.

  • Slightly loosen the two M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) securing the bed side plate to the nut cup on both the right and left sides.

  • Using your hand, push the print head and bridge rail to the rear of their travel. This will move the delicate hot end tip clear of the bed in case the bed raises too far when it is raised in upcoming steps.

  • Verify that both the right and left bed side plates are resting on the Z axis motors to ensure the side plates are at the same height. If adjusting one side, you must hold the motor belt on the other side to ensure it doesn't rotate (the motors are electrically coupled).

  • In Pronterface, click on the Z axis home button. This will raise the bed until the Z limit switch stop attached to the bed side plate comes into contact with the Z limit switch lever arm. Once this happens, the bed should move down slightly and then slowly re-contact the switch again.

Add Comment

  • Retighten the two M5 x 8mm BHCS (button head cap screws) holding the bed side plates to the Z axis nut cups.

  • Using either the graphical user interface or the command line, use Pronterface to move the bed in the positive direction (down) to the extent of its travel and then back up to the home switch to ensure smooth and free movement of the bed mechanism.

    • This will also help distribute the grease along the length of the Z axis threaded rod

  • Home the X axis using the Pronterface home button. The carriage should travel to the left and contact the home limit switch.

  • Using either the graphical user interface or the command line, input the [???] into Pronterface to command the trolley to move to both the positive and negative limits of their travel to ensure smooth operation.

  • Repeat for the Y axis. Note that the limit switch is located on the positive extent of the travel as apposed to the X and Z axis where the limit switch is on the negative limit of travel.

Add Comment

Note: These steps will level the bed and set the Z axis bed height. If you have not yet installed your heated bed, you will need to repeat this step once it is installed. Use the supplied dial indicator and dial indicator block. Attach the dovetail mount to the dial indicator and tighten. Insert the cylindrical end of the dovetail mount into the dial indicator block and fix in place using the supplied M3 screw. See Fig. 59-1. Move the Z-axis in its positive direction approximately 10mm using Pronterface or the Viki. Command the motors off using Pronterface (button on left side of screen).
  • Note: These steps will level the bed and set the Z axis bed height. If you have not yet installed your heated bed, you will need to repeat this step once it is installed.

  • Use the supplied dial indicator and dial indicator block. Attach the dovetail mount to the dial indicator and tighten. Insert the cylindrical end of the dovetail mount into the dial indicator block and fix in place using the supplied M3 screw. See Fig. 59-1.

  • Move the Z-axis in its positive direction approximately 10mm using Pronterface or the Viki. Command the motors off using Pronterface (button on left side of screen).

  • Place the dial indicator block over the head of the main extruder bolt and fix it into place using the second M3 screw. See Fig. 59-2.

  • Swivel the dial indicator feeler arm to form an approximately 20 degree angle to the bed plate as viewed from the side.

  • Ensure the dial indicator feeler arm is lower than the hot end so that it contacts the bed surface before the hot end. See Fig. 59-3.

  • Place the print head near the back left corner of the table and slowly raise the bed until it contacts the dial indicator, moving the needle approximately 0.010 inches (or approximately 90 degrees of needle movement).

Add Comment

Use your hand to push on the trolly plate (and not the extruder itself), move the print head near all four corners of the bed. See Fig. 60-1. Note: The long M5 x 45mm hex bolt will remain tight and protruding out of the bottom of([???] the bed rails at all times. Determine the lowest corner. Adjust the bed leveling nut on the underside of the bed to pull the three highest corners of the bed down to make the bed level. See Fig. 60-2.
  • Use your hand to push on the trolly plate (and not the extruder itself), move the print head near all four corners of the bed. See Fig. 60-1.

  • Note: The long M5 x 45mm hex bolt will remain tight and protruding out of the bottom of([???] the bed rails at all times.

  • Determine the lowest corner. Adjust the bed leveling nut on the underside of the bed to pull the three highest corners of the bed down to make the bed level. See Fig. 60-2.

    • Repeat this procedure as necessary until the bed is perfectly level.

  • Once within 0.005 inches of being level, add slightly more tightness to the M5 x 12mm screws fixing the bed side plates to the bed support rails. See Fig. 60-3.

  • When the bed is level, finish tightening the M5 x 12mm screws and verify the leveling.

  • Remove the dial indicator and return it to its case. Remove the screws from the indicator holder block and place all items into the indicator case.

Add Comment

  • Apply a layer of blue painter's tape to the bed. The PLA will stick well to the blue painter's tape.

  • Move the print head to the rear of its travel in preparation for setting the bed to its home position.

  • Use Pronterface to hone (reset[???]) the Z axis. Inspect the gap between the hot end nozzle and the bed.

  • As necessary, adjust the screw that comes into contact with the Z limit switch downward to raise the bed, or advance the screw upward to lower the bed.

    • Ensure the lock nut is secured after each adjustment. Achieve a gap equal to the thickness of a piece of copy paper.

    • You will be able to make the formal final adjustment once you print a single layer and measure the result to ensure the bed home position is set correctly.

Add Comment

  • Test the extruder operation:

    • Using Pronterface, set the extruder temperature to 190 degrees Celsius and wait for it to heat up.

    • Once the hot end is at the appropriate temperature, extrude 5mm of PLA.

    • Watch the filament going into the extruder to ensure it is feeding smoothly.

    • Keep extruding 5mm of PLA until you can see it exiting the bottom of the hot end.

Add Comment

Observe the point at which the filament travels into the rear filament guide. Lightly pull any slack out of the length of filament between this point and the extruder. Make a mark with a pen or marker approximately 100mm before the filament enters the guide. If using a caliper, zero it from this point. See Fig. 63-1.
  • Observe the point at which the filament travels into the rear filament guide. Lightly pull any slack out of the length of filament between this point and the extruder.

  • Make a mark with a pen or marker approximately 100mm before the filament enters the guide. If using a caliper, zero it from this point. See Fig. 63-1.

  • Input an extrusion rate of 100mm/min and an extrusion length of 10mm into Pronterface. Then, click "Extrude" 8 times.

  • Pause briefly between each extrusion. Once 80mm of filament has been commanded out the hotend, measure what length of filament was actually drawn into the filament guide tube. See Fig. 63-2.

  • Send the following command to Pronterface: "M503".

  • Look for the line of data immediately following "Steps per unit". The number following the "E" is the current calibration for steps per millimeter. Using the following formula, calculate the new steps per millimeter:

    • new steps per mm = current steps per mm * commanded move / actual mm traveled

Add Comment

  • Enter the following command into Pronterface: "M92 Exxxx", where xxxx is the new steps per millimeter.

    • Note: This number can also change when changing filament or adjusting spring tension in the extruder. You can further refine this number with other print-based tests.

  • Repeat the steps above for marking and measuring the filament to verify that your calibrated number is now registered in the firmware.

  • Once you have confirmed the new calibration then update the M92 Exxxx value in: Slic3r -> Printer Settings -> Custom G-code - Start G-code

  • Load a small calibration print into the Slic3r interface, export gcode and print.

  • Remember, if your heated bed is a raw steel bed (with no black coating), you will need to lay down a layer of blue 3M painter's tape prior to printing. This will ensure your print adheres to the bed and stays in place. This will need to be replaced from time to time as it gets worn.

neither pronterface or simplify3d are responding to the M92E command, any thoughts?

BILLY - Reply

Great catch, Billy. Sent alone, the "M92" command (no 'E') will not do anything. When used in conjunction with values, "M92 Xa.aaa Yb.bbb Zc.ccc Ed.ddd" will set the X, Y, Z, and E values to a.aa, b.bb, c.cc, and d.dd, respectively. You can leave out any of the X, Y, Z, or E values and it will leave those specific axes alone. To retrieve the current settings, type M501 with no arguments, and the firmware will echo all of the current default settings, including the steps per mm.

Chris Gerty -

Conclusion

Have questions? Need help? Email support@re3d.org This guide accompanies our wiki at http://wiki.re3d.org

18 other people completed this guide.

Chris Gerty

Member since: 08/04/2013

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5 Guides authored

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Step 8

Edited to remove the install of Corner plates and Triangle braces which were already installed in step 3. Screwed up and deleted whole step. Recreated but could not upload images from dropbox. Sorry.

Question-should we edit the wiki or just leave comments for feedback?

Kurt Schuster - Reply

As always, please feel free to edit the wiki in a way you think will help the next person to use it. Let us know at support@re3d.org if you run into any issues - or if you need to recover changed you made by mistake - we can revert the changes for you. It looks like you had success in getting the step back though - thanks!

Chris Gerty - Reply

I think it would be a lot easier if someone could post a series of youtube videos (or videos on some other site) showing how to put this together. I would do it, but I'm on step 45 and haven't video taped the previous steps. Besides, I'm probably not doing it right. I am hopeful though that I'll be able to get this done and working within the next 4 or 5 months.

Steven Merritt - Reply

Hi Steve - we're working on some tutorial videos for 3D printing in general, and also some specific to the assembly of the Gigabot. They will show up at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYQ5gyb... as they are completed - we have a few up already but more will follow!

If you have suggestions for future subjects that are the most needed, please let us know? Thanks!

Chris Gerty -

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